Fall Gardening In Central Texas
Grow Green: Native and Adapted Landscape Plants for Central Texas – PDF Download
October 2021
by Rebecca Burrow
General Maintenance
October is a great time to make new garden beds. It is cooler now! There are three types of beds you can build.
Raised bed: Build a box out of your chosen material, such as cedar planks, brick, stone, railroad ties, or juniper trunks. Fill with half soil and half compost. This bed can be planted in immediately.
In-ground bed: Remove any grass with a spade and till the soil, working in compost as you do it. This is labor intensive, but the bed can be planted immediately. Plant your plants and then put down a thick layer of mulch. Trim the edge with cedar plank, stone, brick, or other edging to prevent grass encroachment.
Spring bed: This bed is much less work but has to sit over the winter and cannot be planted until spring. Simply mow and clear the area then add a 3-inch layer of compost. Lay out cardboard, being careful to cover any seams, wet thoroughly, and cover with a thick layer of mulch. Extremely simple, fast, and easy. Come back in the spring and you will have a good bed to plant in.
Generally clean up all your beds and add a new layer of compost and mulch.
Get your frost protection stuff ready and in good working order. You never know!
Vegetables
The fall garden in Central Texas really takes off now. You can plant pretty much any cool-season veggie!
The traditional time to plant onion seeds is Columbus Day, October 12. Use short-day varieties for Bell County, like 1015Y, Texas Early White, and Red Creole. You can direct sow in the garden or make your own transplants, just like the bundled ones you would buy. The greatest benefit of growing onions from seed is they are generally less likely to bolt.
To direct sow onions, add 5% radish seed so they can mark your row. Harvest the radishes and young onions as desired to eventually get a 4" spacing between onions. Then just let them grow. This is by far the least amount of work.
To make your own onion transplants, try the commercial method. Fill a planting tray with soil. Then almost cover the entire surface with seed before topping with a thin layer of soil. No joke. You can fill that tray up. Grow in good southern light or grow lights. Trim the tops back once 5 inches to encourage stronger roots. Once February comes around you will have a dense mat of little onion plants. Harden off properly outside before preparing to plant. Wash the dirt off the plant mat, trim the roots, and you essentially have what you would have bought at the feed store. The advantage of this method is the sheer number of plants you can start using almost no space, and that allows you to grow other things in your winter garden outside.
Plant transplants for: artichoke, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, kale, and kohlrabi
Sow seed for: beets, carrot, Swiss chard, garlic, cool-season greens, lettuce, mustard, onion, radish, shallot, spinach, and turnip
Ornamentals
October is general perennial planting season, particularly for those plants that didn't make it through the summer! You can plant just about anything right now, including sowing wildflower seeds like Indian paintbrush and bluebonnets.
Dig up and store caladium bulbs when the foliage dies.
Bulbs: It is bulb season! Buy and plant naturalized bulbs like daffodils, species tulips, oxblood lilies, and grape hyacinth. Large tulips and hyacinths need to be put in the fridge for 60 days so they will bloom in the spring. Make sure to label and date the bag.
Plant cool-season annuals such as pansies, snapdragons, and petunias. They can continue to be planted and enjoyed throughout our mild winters.
Shrubs: This is the best time to plant evergreen plants, such as Autumn Sage or Damianita. They establish better than if planted in the spring (though they take that perfectly fine too), because they do not have to endure the summer heat. Continue to water your evergreen plants, as they lose water throughout the winter.
Prepare your potted tender perennials to move back inside. Do any necessary repotting or pruning. Be sure to check for unwanted stowaways before bringing them in when it gets cold.
Trees
This is a good time to plant most potted trees. It is better to wait until November or December, but as long as you water regularly the tree should be okay. Do not plant bareroot trees yet. Those have to be completely dormant.
Stop watering fruit trees and blackberries, except for persimmons which are still bearing fruit. Remove, clean, and winterize your drip irrigation components to prepare for the next year. You might need to reinstall your components if we have a drought year, but our winters usually provide enough rain for dormant trees.
Strawberries: Plant June-bearing strawberry plants (like Chandler, Sequoia, or Douglas) now for an early spring harvest. Fall is the best time for strawberries in Bell County. Use a soil pH test to make sure the soil is within 6.0-6.8 pH, which is optimal for strawberries, and water regularly throughout the winter. Be sure to protect them from freezes as well. Go to https://www.gardenguides.com/110507-plant-strawberries-texas.html for more information.
Blackberries: Prune your blackberries. How you prune and why depends on the type of blackberry you have. Go to https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/fruit/Blackberries/blackberries.html for more information.
Lawn Care
The lower temperatures mean you can lower your mower blade down to about 2 ½ inches (this is assuming it needs to be mowed). Getting more sun to your grass is now more important than shading it from the heat.
This is the best time of year to fertilize your lawn. Use compost or an organic slow release fertilizer like 8-2-4. You do not want too much nitrogen. You want good root growth before winter.
Removing leaves is your choice. Trees self-mulch by shedding their leaves, which rot and stimulate a good fungal environment around the tree's roots. Trees do not like grass, though they can generally tolerate it. You have to determine which is more important to you, the tree or the lawn. If you want to cultivate the lawn, the leaves need to be raked up. Compost the leaves along with your downed branches and grass clippings.
Change the time on your lawn sprinkler system. Reduce lawn irrigation to once a week unless there is a drought. Go for longer, more infrequent watering to encourage a deep root system and reduce potential fungal concerns.
Early October is your last chance to put in sod. Water as needed depending on temperature and rainfall. The grass needs a few weeks to establish before frosts begin.
Pests and Wildlife
Some pests love October's mild temperatures and humidity. Expect to see more aphids, mealy bugs, mites, and scale now that there is no burning heat to limit them. There will also be a lot of caterpillars of all kinds, which tends to attract wasps and other predatory insects. Hackberry trees may be particularly infested, but the tree does not mind.
Armyworms may also be an issue as well, so look out for your Bermudagrass or ryegrass lawn. Armyworm moths like light, so consider keeping your landscape lights off if there is not a safety concern.
Monarch butterfly: October is typically when the fall Monarch butterfly migration is in full swing for Central Texas. You might see some in September, but October is the month to watch the migration and tag butterflies. Go to https://texasbutterflyranch.com/2015/09/30/how-to-tag-a-monarch-butterfly-in-six-easy-steps/ for more information on tagging Monarchs as well as reporting your data to Monarch Watch.
September 2021
by Rebecca Burrow
This has been a very, very strange year. Excessive rain, a lack of burning heat, and overall strangeness in the weather make planning ahead difficult.
Here is the rundown:
There are a lot of bugs. A lot. Probably in much higher numbers than average due to more
moisture and less heat facilitating their reproduction. Aphids, armyworms, and other insects are off the charts.
There is a lot of mold and mildew because of the rains and humidity. Things have not had a
chance to dry up. I have a tree that is practically black with sooty mold and I have seen it on crepe myrtles as well. The black spot on roses has been horrible.
September is normally a transitional month. The heat of summer usually breaks about mid-
September and moves into cooler, more fall-like weather before culminating in October. When
you do something in September completely depends on the temperature. This article will assume average weather: a hot (90-100s) first half and a cooler (80s) second half.
A disclaimer: there is no way to know how the weather will bounce this year. We can only plan for what we know. So that is what this article will do. Everything is temperature dependent. If it is still 90 by late September, then you cannot do the things you would have done if it was 80. Make your best judgment given the weather.
General Maintenance
There has been a lot of fungal and insect problems. Continually sanitize your tools to keep from spreading the problem.
Prune dead wood from perennials that experienced a lot of dieback from the Tundra if you have not already, as well as anything that died over the summer. Stop pruning by October so you do not encourage new growth, which would freeze in November. Remove fallen wooden to reduce insect infestations.
Do not fertilize for the same reason. Plants need to be going dormant to prepare for winter, not making new growth.
Start cutting back on watering perennials when the temperature gets below 85 degrees. This will encourage plants to harden off. However, if it doesn't rain for two weeks, water. Water deeply.
Consider putting in rain barrels or a rain tank to capture rainwater coming off your roof. This water is more acidic than tap water and free of chlorine. Plants always prefer rainwater if it is available. Capturing rainwater can also reduce your landscape water bill. The Bell County Master Gardener Association hosts periodic rain barrel classes where you get to make and take home your own rain barrel.
Go to https://txmg.org/bell/water-collection-rain-barrel-workshop/ for more information.
Vegetables
You cannot plant fall crops until the temperature decreases. This usually occurs mid-to-late September. It needs to be on average 85 degrees or less with cooler nights. This section assumes this has occurred.
Really be on the lookout for aphids, mealy bugs, mites, and mildew. Do not overwater and do not water the leaves of plants. Drip irrigation is ideal.
Sow fall cover crops such as buckwheat, annual ryegrass, and oats. You can sow your cover crop on any open areas and between rows of crops in your fall veggie garden. Till under the cover crop before they go to seed and at least two weeks before planting vegetables in the spring.
Plant perennial herbs such as thyme and rosemary.
The fall garden is a fantastic growing season in Bell County. If you planned ahead, you started transplants back in July and they will be ready to plant out when the heat breaks.
Plant transplants for: artichoke, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, kale, and kohlrabi.
Sow seed for: beets, carrot, Swiss chard, and peas (English, snap, snow)
Ornamentals
Rains and increased humidity bring the threat of disease, such as black spot, fungus, and
powdery mildew, not to mention slugs. Do not overwater and do not water the leaves of plants.
You may see signs of potassium deficiency and nitrogen deficiency from all the rain. Potassium deficiency is characterized by yellowing of old leaves while the veins remain green. Nitrogen deficiency results in a complete yellowing of old leaves. Apply compost to affected plants in general. Kelp meal helps with potassium while blood meal helps with nitrogen. Always follow package directions with soil amendments to prevent burning.
Annuals: You cannot plant fall and winter annuals until the heat breaks and things cool down, so you may just want to wait until October.
Roses: Be on the lookout for Black Spot. Prune rambling and large-flowering climbing roses
after they finish blooming. Go to https://aggiehorticulture.tamu.edu/archives/parsons/publications/roses/prune.html for more information.
Wildflowers: Most native wildflowers, such as bluebonnets, mature and cast off seed now.
Mimic this by doing the same thing. Sow your spring-blooming wildflower seeds. Alternatively,
you can save the seed from spent summer bloomers such as liatris, coneflower, and coreopsis for sowing in the spring. If saving seed, allow them to mature and dry completely before storage.
Many perennial bunching plants such as iris, cast iron plant, and hostas can be divided if beds are crowded. Remove all plants, spread out a thick layer of compost, and replant. Leave ample space between plants so you do not have to divide every year. Bearded irises should be planted a minimum of 2 feet apart. Extra plants are free and can be put elsewhere in your garden (or given to friends!)
Trees
Trees have been particularly hard hit this year. The Tundra really damaged a lot of our trees, native or not, and particularly ash trees. There has been a lot of dieback, dead crowns, and general freeze damage such as cracking and ring shakes. Cracking splits the bark while ring shakes peel it off in sheets.
Some trees have completely died above the ground, leaving only their roots alive. These trees send out shoots from the ground called suckers as a last ditch attempt to live. The current recommendation for such trees is to cut them down. They are too far gone if they have not recovered by this point. Alive but extremely damaged trees may also send out suckers and
watersprouts (which pop out along trees or branches), but there is still hope. Remove all the watersprouts and suckers if you want to save the tree.
Other trees appear sickly or stressed (because they were!) but they have leaves. Give them a chance. Wait until late spring to make the call to cut them down. They may recover. The Tundra killed a lot of flowering or leafing buds and some trees cannot make new buds until the next year. If in doubt, call a certified arborist.
Live oaks and post oaks seem to be unusually affected by the freeze and have been extremely reluctant to leaf out. Oaks are slow growing, so they might just be waiting until next spring to put in the effort. Give them a chance. Our oaks are worth giving the benefit of the doubt.
A dead tree is not a particular hazard. Some branches may need to be removed, but the dead
trunk is stable for at least a couple years. There is no rush to cut it down.
Apply a fall layer of mulch around all trees. Do not add compost, just good organic mulch such as woodchips. It helps retain more water over the course of winter and insulates the soil, which aids against frost.
Remove any grass around the root flare. The grass can encourage insects to travel up the tree and hang out for the winter.
Lawn Care
Do not mow too low. You do not want too much light getting to the soil surface and encouraging weeds. Light plus rain is a recipe for weeds. Mow high, if at all.
Cut back on irrigation if it has rained. It is better to irrigate deeply once or twice a week instead of every day, to deepen the grass' roots, increase drought resistance, and reduce fungal problems. This also helps prepare warm-season grasses for winter dormancy.
With bermudagrass lawns, September is the time for optional overseeding. Bermudagrass goes dormant in the winter, so some people choose to overseed with a cool-season grass such as annual ryegrass or rough bluegrass. This keeps the lawn green. If you want to overseed, now is the time to do it!
Fertilizer: Fall application. You can now fertilize St. Augustine and Bermudagrass lawns at 1/2 cup of nitrogen fertilizer per 1000 sqft. More is not better. Too much fertilizer weakens the grass. You can alternatively apply a ½ in layer of compost. Do not fertilize Buffalograss lawns.
Pests and Wildlife
Aphids have been a huge problem all year and they will probably not go away until it frosts. There has just been so much rain and humidity. However, it may not be too much of a problem if your plant seems to be tolerating it. My hackberry tree is covered in all sorts of pests, but I also saw every life stage of ladybug on the tree, from egg, larva, pupae, and adult. The ecology is doing the work for me. But what if you need to do something? Spraying the plant with high pressure water dislodges aphids and insecticidal soap is useful. Follow the directions for any type of pesticide. You can also remove a particularly infested portion of the plant (often branch tips or flower buds), bag it up, and throw it away.
Fall armyworms are making their offensive and taking no prisoners, particularly on well
fertilized Bermudagrass or ryegrass lawns. They usually feed at night and do a great deal of
damage in a short period of time, sometimes hours in high infestations. Treatment with
pyrethroids specifically for armyworms is called for if you have 3+ caterpillars per square foot. Armyworms will persist until the first killing frost, so multiple treatments may be needed.
Fall webworms can be an issue when it gets cooler, especially on pecan and hickory trees. If possible, take a long stick and break open the webbing for birds and wasps to eat the caterpillars inside. Low-hanging branches can be cut off if particularly infested.
St. Augustine grass: When the temperatures cool, look out for chinch bugs and diseases such as brown patch and take-all root rot. They can both occur when the humidity is high and
temperatures are moderate. Brown patch fungus makes a smoke-ring as the fungus moves
outward. Take-all root rot turns leaves yellow and eventually kills them.
August
by Rebecca Burrow
General
Please stay aware of the heat, because it can creep up on you in the early morning. Gardens are for rest, not for passing out.
Install your fall application of organic mulch. Spring mulch has mostly decayed by now and some soil may be bare, leaving it exposed to drying out and even blowing away in the wind. Properly mulched plants tolerate drought much better than plants without mulch. Mulch can keep the soil 10 to 20 degrees cooler than exposed soil and that matters a lot when it is a 100 degrees outside! The fluffier the mulch, the deeper it has to be. Straw should be 4-6 inches deep while arborist wood chips and other similar mulches can be 2-3 inches deep.
Do not fertilize plants in general, because the salts draw water out of the plant. If you absolutely must fertilize, make sure you water deeply and use an organic liquid fertilizer like seaweed emulsion.
Water deeply and check soil moisture to 3 inches deep to ensure that roots have actually received water. August rains usually are not that penetrating (it tends to evaporate quickly).
Vegetables
You may be surprised to know that you can actually plant corn, summer squash, and a few other summer vegetables in August. The key to success with this is to plant early maturing varieties that can finish the harvest before November freezes, so stick with cultivars that are 60 days or less.
Watering is the name of the game during the high heat of summer. Use whatever method you need, but keep your veggies watered! The traditional olla pot is a wonderful, efficient, and fast method of watering if you do not have a drip irrigation system. They are buried unglazed terracotta pots with a lid that you fill with water. I can never find one though, so I often use empty coffee cans with holes poked in them. Do what you have to do!
Potatoes: Did you know there are determinate and indeterminate potatoes? Determinate have a harvest of less than 70 days while longer than 90 days are indeterminate (the 70-90 days can go either way). I like to make potato towers, but the method differs based on the potato. Determinate: plant the seed potatoes along the outside rim so they grow horizontally, leaving a small hole for the plant to grow out through. The plant's leaves will grow outside the tower cage. You will get the same quantity of harvest as putting them directly in the ground. Indeterminate: plant the potatoes in a center ring and allow them to grow upwards. Mound up dirt 3-4 times around the growing plant until the soil height is around 18 inches. The plant will not produce more potatoes along the stem above this height.
Plant transplants for: potato (seed potatoes), (you can also do pepper, tomato, and eggplant during the first half of the month, but hurry up!)
Sow seed for: beans, cucumber, corn, warm-season greens, and summer squash
Ornamentals
Now is the time to sow bluebonnet seed! They need to germinate before frost and grow over the winter to flower in the spring. They prefer disturbed, poor, well-drained soil. The seeds are hard so scarify them with sandpaper or a knife, but only do this if you plan on watering them for a couple months. Otherwise, leave the seeds alone. Plant as you would other wildflowers and ensure good seed-to-soil contact. Go to https://www.wildflower.org/learn/how-to/grow-bluebonnets for more information and tips for growing bluebonnets from seed.
Sow seed for cool-season annuals like snapdragon, dianthus, and pansies so you can plant them out in October. Keep flats either indoors or in a shady, protected area of the garden.
Containers: container plants can dry out extremely quickly and may require daily watering. This also means that nutrients leach out faster, so regularly fertilize with a water soluble fertilizer, like seaweed emulsion, as needed.
Roses: late August and early September is a good time for end-of-season pruning for ever-blooming roses (spring-blooming only roses have already been pruned and can be left alone). Remove dead canes and other hindering growth. This should be your last pruning of the year so that new growth can harden off to prevent frost damage. You may even get a final flush of blooms in October (but be on the lookout for black spot!)
Trees
Continue to water fruit trees through the heat, particularly since August tends to experience very little rainfall. A drip irrigation system is ideal, especially if you have a simple timer installed. Regardless of the method though, you want deep and thorough water penetration. Aim for 1-2 inches of water per week if the temperature is on average above 98 degrees.
Be particularly careful with your persimmon trees, as they can drop their fruit with drought or uneven watering.
Lawn Care
Do not mow if you don't have to. You want the blades high and shading the soil underneath to improve drought resistance, but also so that weeds do not burst forth when September rains arrive. If you must mow, do not remove more than 1/3 of the blade height.
Weed killers can generally not be used in the August heat. Most cannot be used above 85 degrees.
There is not a lot of rain and the scorching sun sucks water from your lawn. Do not be tempted to water every day, as this causes your lawn to be susceptible to drought stress. Water as infrequently (but also as deeply!) as you can get away with.
Chinch bugs can be an issue this time of year. They prefer hot, dry, sunny lawns, particularly St. Augustine. Look for large irregular patches of wilting, yellowing, and dying grass. Chinch bugs suck the grass dry, so the blades are still attached to the roots (unlike with white grubs). Water the lawn before applying a pesticide so the bugs climb to the top of the grass.
Pests and Wildlife
Rainfall and humidity will determine what pests start arriving now or later in September. More rain equals earlier pests such as fall webworms.
Continue to watch for aphids and spider mites, particularly after any spontaneous rains. Blast affected plants, like crepe myrtles, with a hose and make sure to get the underside of the leaves.
July 2021
by Rebecca Burrow
General Maintenance
While we have had an incredibly rainy June, there is no doubt that we are now in the full and burning arms of summer. Constrain gardening to the early morning or late evening hours so you do not kill yourself and stay properly hydrated. Drinking plain water may not be enough for some particularly hard-working gardeners, especially if you tend to sweat a lot. Headaches later in the day are a sign you need more electrolytes. Buy such a drink or make a simple beverage with a mineral-rich salt, honey or sugar, and non-concentrated fruit juice. Also consider taking magnesium and zinc supplements in the morning.
Be wise about the heat. The sun is physically higher in the sky than in the winter and it is not your imagination when it feels like it really is beating down on you. Spend the early mornings gardening and enjoy a nice cold watermelon in the afternoon.
In general, do not fertilize plants anymore, especially synthetic fertilizers. These fertilizers are types of salts that remove water from the plant. In the spring the plant can keep up with the rate of water removal, but with the ferocious heat and evaporation fertilizer will burn and damage your plants. The exception is potted plants which get watered often enough to compensate and vegetables which can receive liquid foliar fertilizers or compost.
Vegetables
Harvest vegetables and herbs in the early morning, preferably when the dew is still on the leaves. They are at the peak of quality and nutrition at this time. Harvested greens will stay fresher longer simply because of the dew.
It might be the middle of summer, but start now for the fall! Many of the fall garden's main plants, such as broccoli and cabbage, benefit enormously from a head start much like tomatoes and peppers do in the early spring. Start fall transplants now to plant in mid-September. This ensures they have enough time to produce a crop before frosts (possibly) kill them.
It is also time to plant those summer transplants you started back in May! Use shade cloth over these plants until they have a chance to grow and strengthen.
Tomatoes: Most tomato varieties will stop setting flowers when nighttime temperatures are on average above 75 degrees and daytime temperatures are above 90 degrees. This is to be expected and producing a lot of flowers before the heat is the single primary reason why tomato transplants are started in January or February for our growing region.
Start transplants for: artichoke, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, kale, and kohlrabi.
Plant transplants for: eggplant, pepper, tomato
Sow seed for: early-maturing corn, warm-season greens, summer squash, winter squash
Ornamentals
Check hanging baskets frequently for watering. If you can, take them down and soak them in a basin of water for several minutes. Sometimes the interior of a container can stay bone dry while the water runs off the sides. A deep soaking every once in awhile helps prevent this. Periodically use a gentle water-soluble fertilizer to replace the salts leached out by frequent watering.
Roses: around now is the time to prune spring-only blooming roses. This is their big yearly prune (not in the early spring like repeat bloomers).
Crepe myrtles: Aphids can be a problem during the summer and rain annoying honeydew from infested trees. Spray with a hose on a regular basis if this is a problem for you. The tree won't mind the extra water!
Trees and Fruit
Many types of fruit trees are either in the midst of harvest or finishing up their harvest season. Make sure to pick up any fallen fruit to keep from attracting scavengers and prevent disease issues. Most fallen fruit is suitable for eating, if not as pretty, so these make great candidates for jams and preserves (if you got to them before the bugs did.)
Continue to water fruit trees deeply once a week if it doesn't rain to prevent premature fruit drop (especially for persimmons!)
Blackberries: Prune back dead floricanes that have finished fruiting. These now useless branches will only clutter next year's growth.
Lawn Care
There is not a lot of rain and the scorching sun sucks water from your lawn. Do not be tempted to water every day, as this causes your lawn to be susceptible to drought stress. Water as infrequently (but also as deeply!) as you can get away with. The same goes for mowing. Chances are your grass will not really be growing and is going into summer dormancy. Mow as little as possible and do not remove more than 1/3 of the blade when you do.
Pests and Wildlife
Spider mites are a concern when the days are hot and dry while aphids appear when the humidity is high. Heavily infested foliage can be cut off and thrown away if beyond repair. Otherwise, spray with a hose to dislodge pests. Make sure to get the underside of the leaves.
Grow Green: Native and Adapted Landscape Plants for Central Texas – PDF Download
Download and read through this really handy booklet with a list of trees, shrubs, perennials, yuccas/succulents, prairie grasses, vines, groundcovers, and turfgrasses along with their potential size and growing requirements. You will need to research nursery availability for these plants, most are draught tolerant and they have all proven to be successful in Central Texas!
May 2021
by Rebecca Burrow
It has warmed up enough to get those seeds planted! Cosmos, Zennias… It is still spring, but it may be starting to feel a bit more like summer. May is the transition month. You are moving from "I can do anything right now I have the power" to "I have exactly two days until the heat kills everything I just planted." Use the first half of this month wisely to get necessary planting done. You do not have much longer!
General Maintenance
Keep your plants mulched and watered. Watering is really the name of the game as we head into summer. However, you want to do it properly in order to stimulate deep root development and drought resistance. Water as deeply and infrequently as you can get away with. Try to see how the plant does without supplemental water. You may be pleasantly surprised or disappointed. Either way, it is less work for you, you have stronger plants, and a lower water bill.
Many spring-blooming wildflowers have gone to seed by now. Collect the seed and dry thoroughly to plant in the fall when such plants begin their lifecycle.
Many plants, from annual to perennial, can still be planted now. But you are running out of time before summer so get to it!
Vegetables
You can get a second harvest out of summer plants like tomatoes by actually growing another set of tomatoes. If started now, transplants can be planted in July and produce a good crop by the time frosts kill them in mid-November. They enjoy the decreasing temperatures of September and October. But the window is short!
Prune indeterminate (vining) tomato plants by removing suckers. These suckers grow out of the stem between the stem and a branch at a 45 degree angle. You do not need to do this for determinate (bush) tomatoes. Go to http://www.tomatodirt.com/pruning-tomato.html for more information.
Enjoy an early morning stroll through the garden in order to find, kill, and annihilate stinkbugs, squash bugs, and other similar bugs on your plants. I particularly like a cordless handheld vacuum for squash bugs. Look for droppings on tomatoes to find that tomato hornworm you probably have. If you have chickens, they love hornworms.
Start transplants for: eggplant, pepper, sweet potato (slips), and tomato
Sow seed for: melons, warm-season greens, okra, Southern peas, pumpkin, winter squash, and watermelon
Ornamentals
Prune spring-flowering shrubs, vines, and roses. Unlike ever-blooming plants which were pruned in the winter, you can't do that with spring-only-bloomers (you cut all the flowers off). Prune them for tidiness and good open form now that their flowers have died. A breathable form, particularly in roses, is extremely helpful in our humid climate to reduce fungal disease.
Your spring-blooming bulbs are probably finished by now and the leaves have dried up. Lift, move, and divide these bulbs while you still know where they are.
Deadhead flowering plants like zinnias, geranium, and Autumn Sage to encourage frequent blooming.
Many spring annuals are going to be on their way out soon. Sow seeds for summer wildflowers and annuals like zinnia, marigold, and sunflowers. Consider getting other ornamentals like coleus, gomphrena, morning glory, and cosmos.
Trees and Fruit
Fertilize fruit trees over the whole root zone with a 2" layer of compost or 21-0-0. Do not let any fertilizer touch the trunk, as this can cause rot and disease. For older trees, they receive 1 cup of 21-0-0 per year, so a 6-year-old tree would receive 6 cups out to a radius of six feet. Instead of using fertilizer, some people have had success underplanting their fruit trees with clover or birdsfoot trefoil to provide necessary nitrogen.
Depending on the chill hours of your peach, plum, pear, or apple, you may still have to THIN. Thinning is vital. These trees almost always set way too much fruit, which can cause a tree to skip a year, make low-quality fruit, or physically break branches. You want to thin the fruit when they are the size of your thumbnail or a quarter, which probably happened back in April, but might stretch into May. Thin clusters to every 8 inches and leave one fruit.
Blackberries: This is the start of harvest season! Harvest every 2-4 days depending on the fruit firmness of the variety. And then call over your friends. While waiting for them to arrive, prune out the primocanes (first year wood growing from the base) if you have not already. Leave the two best primocanes and shorten them to 2-3 feet. This puts more energy into fruit and opens up the hedge.
Citrus: These plants need a lot of nitrogen, so stay on top of it. Apply blood meal or other nitrogen fertilizer every few weeks throughout the growing season. You can also use compost, just be sure to keep reapplying it regularly.
Strawberries: Your June-bearing strawberries have probably finished by now. You can either rip them out to make room for something else or decide to keep them going. Some people have had success with taking strawberries over the summer and letting them resume fruiting in the fall. They would need to be covered with shade cloth to prevent heat stress and consistent watering is essential.
Lawn Care
Buffalograss lawns can be seeded now. Choose native seed. Hybrid male-only seed cannot go to seed and fill itself in over time, resulting in weed issues. Buffalograss is extremely drought tolerant, requiring no irrigation, but cannot tolerate shade. Do not fertilize established buffalograss lawns.
Other warm-season turfgrass, such as Bermuda and St. Augustine, can also be established now that the temperature is warmer. Water consistently for at least a month.
Put your lawnmower to mow high. Summer is coming quickly and grass needs to shade itself a little from the sun to be more drought resistant. Do not remove more than a third of the blade at one time. Be sure to mow weeds before they go to seed.
WATERING your lawn properly is essential to good growth and drought resistance through our hot summers. Never water every day. When you do that, it does not encourage the roots to move down in search of water and the grass becomes much more susceptible to drought. It will also require more water because it doesn't have the root mass. It really is a vicious cycle. So what to do? Train your lawn. If you can train your lawn to be drought resistant now while the temps are still low, it will serve you well in the summer.
1. Do not water at all if there has been ½ inch of rainfall that week. You might need to water more when the average temperatures go over 95 degrees, but until then, ½ inch of water a week is good.
2. Water as infrequently as possible. If you don't have to water, don't. Try to get down to only once a week.
3. Water deeply and for a longer period of time when you do water. It is much better to water once a week for an hour than three times a week for 20 minutes.
4. Water at night or in the early early morning (like 3-6 am) to eliminate evaporation. You want your grass (particularly St. Augustine) to dry off as quickly as possible in the morning to prevent fungal problems.
This infrequent watering not only strengthens your lawn, but it also uses a lot less water over the long term. Some cities have water restrictions so this factor is important.
Pests and Wildlife
Consider feeding resident songbirds and supplying a clean water source. They could use a little pick-me-up while caring for their voracious chicks. Make sure water sources are either shallow or have an entry ramp to allow slightly idiotic critters to be able to get out. Place feeders in a clear open space away from places cats could hide. You want to feed the birds, not the cat!
Aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites can be a problem. Keep on the lookout and consider releasing ladybugs and lacewings to do the work for you. Aphids can also be blasted off plants with a hose. Don't forget to check under the leaves as well. Damaged plant material should be thrown away, not composted, especially if it has developed sooty mold.
Mosquitoes: Our area usually gets a lot of rain around this time of year. Mosquitoes can definitely be a problem. It only takes a week of standing water to have a fresh crop of bloodsuckers. Be diligent about checking for water around pots, ditches, and low areas, including clogged gutters, water troughs, tires, bird baths, and buckets. Mosquitoes like to rest amongst dense vegetation where there is no wind to bother them, so consider removing dense groundcovers like Asian Jasmine (especially by your front door) and keep plants trimmed so there is adequate airflow. Make sure there are no stagnant areas.
April 2021
April Gardening Checklist
by Rebecca Burrow
Frosts have most likely passed (our average last frost is March 15th), but late April frosts have happened! Go find a pecan or mesquite tree. They will not start leafing out until all frosts have passed. No buds or leaves means it isn't safe to set out your frost-tender annuals or veggies without protection.
Warning: Be very careful when going to a garden nursery. Have a budget. You have been warned. Try not to get overwhelmed with the spring rush and all the stuff you could possibly do or that needs to be done. Don't forget to enjoy your garden.
General Maintenance
Usually our winter and spring rains are pretty good. Some may even experience flooding. But stay on top of how much rainfall you actually receive. Use a simple rain gauge. If you have received half an inch of rainfall per week on average, your perennial plants are probably okay. If not, water as needed.
Apply compost and mulch to just about everything, annual or perennial. No need to till in compost (actually, you shouldn't). Just lay it on top. The mulch will be critical to drought tolerance once the heat sets in.
Vegetables
Fungal diseases start to become a problem as temperatures warm and the humidity rises. Do not crowd your vegetable plants, especially ones with big leaves. Adequate air flow is crucial to preventing fungal disease. Consider growing vining plants like indeterminate tomatoes, cucumbers, and squash vertically to improve circulation (as well as save space).
Consider making a sacrifice plot a distance away from the garden. It functions as a trap. Use delicious things like a squash for squash bugs or butterflyweed (Asclepias tuberosa) for aphids. When part of a plant is attacked, bag it up and throw it away. A vacuum works great for squash bugs. Also plant some herbs like dill, borage, or anise hyssop to attract predatory insects to the buffet. They need things to eat too! These predators will work all over the garden, not just the sacrifice plot.
Alternatively, if one veggie seems to be particularly attacked, you have some options.
1. Remove it. That plant is not worth the trouble. Focus on the other things in your garden or try a different cultivar. It may prove more resistant.
2. Move it to your sacrifice plot where it can be useful in its demise.
3. Check the health of the plant and soil conditions. Healthy and strong plants are seldom attacked and not in force. Apply compost and mulch. Check for nutrient deficiencies like iron chlorosis in high alkaline soils.
4. Record what occurred and start breeding your own resistant cultivars from the plants that were NOT attacked so badly. This is called "landracing" and is actually pretty easy if you have non-hydrid seed. It's just like breeding animals except much faster. Nothing fancy needed! Look up https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/growing-seeds-zmaz78sozraw for more information.
5. Use an organic pesticide according to label directions. This is considered a last resort measure when you cannot afford to lose any plants. Keep in mind that this intervention throws off the ecology and can make more work for you later. Research the pest, its causes, and prevention to prepare for next time.
Slugs and snails can be a definite issue after April and May rains. Baits exist for infestations, but be aware that baits also act as attractants and can be a double-edged sword. There is a saying that if you have a slug problem, you have a duck deficiency. Maybe an option for some gardeners?
Squash tip: The infamous squash vine borer can be a real menace. Some years they seem absent and other times not a single squash survives. One option is to cover your squash with fine netting to prevent the moth from laying eggs. If they always seem to be an issue for you, consider Option 4 above and breed resistant plants by saving seeds from the survivors.
Tomato tip: Tomato transplants can often get leggy by the time they are ready for planting outside. But this is to your advantage! Tomatoes will root along the stem! Remove the bottom leaves, leaving a nice tuft of leaves at the top. Make a trench and plant horizontally with the leaves above the soil. You now have a ton more roots than you did before and that equals a healthier, stronger plant. Go https://garden.org/learn/articles/view/360/ for more information. This does not work on anything else!
Bush beans, greens, and chard can be sowed in two-week intervals to extend the harvest over the whole season.
Plant transplants for: eggplant, peppers of all kinds, sweet potato (slips), and tomato
Sow seed for: beans, melons, Swiss chard, corn, cucumber, warm-season greens, okra, Southern peas, summer squash, winter squash, and watermelon (all of these germinate quickly in warm soil and do not like being moved)
Ornamentals
Late April is the best time to plant warm-season annuals such as marigolds, zinnia, lisianthus, and periwinkles. You can also plant fall-blooming bulbs like oxblood lilies. Wait to plant caladiums though. Generally, you can plant anything you like now once frosts have passed, such as succulents, ornamental grasses, and vines.
Have fun making hanging containers or standing urns. Now is a good time to revitalize old container plants as well. Use the "spiller, filler, thriller" trio to make a stunning arrangement.
Let the leaves of spring bulbs completely die before lifting or cutting back, otherwise the bulbs may not have enough food stored up for next year.
Divide perennials like irises and daylilies if you have not already.
Do not prune spring-blooming plants. Wait for the flowers to completely die before pruning.
You may be moving house plants back outside now that frosts are past. Do so gradually to prevent shock. Increase the time outside in partial shade until they can be out all afternoon. This is also a good time to give them a nice spring cleaning and compost.
Trees and Fruit
Do not prune or cut oak trees if you can help it. Opinions are mixed, but it may be a good idea to spray a tree sealant on accidental injuries to an oak such as a broken limb from a storm.
It is generally too late to plant large trees because they come out of dormancy. You can swing a small potted tree though.
General rule: Do not apply pesticides during bloom. This can kill beneficial pollinators as well as reducing your fruit crop.
Some fruit trees need to be thinned of their fruit. Peaches, plums, and pears are especially bad about this. They set so much fruit it can break the branches off and there is no way they can ripen so many, severely decreasing fruit quality. A general rule of thumb is one good fruit every 8 inches. Peaches tend to make clusters of three or more little fruits. Only keep the best one per cluster.
Peaches: Thinning is the main issue right now. Peaches can severely overload and some cultivars are worse than others. TexStar sets clusters almost every 1-2 inches. Look at your trees for the next thirty days. Fruit size will depend on the cultivar and the seasonal weather. You want to thin when the fruit is about the size of your thumb. Thin clusters to one fruit every 8-10 inches. Some effort now will be rewarded in larger, sweeter, much higher quality fruit and a healthier tree.
Blackberries: Your floricanes (last year's wood) should be blooming. This year's growth (primocanes) is growing from the crown and can engulf the floricanes. Remove all but the two healthiest primocanes at the ground. This sends more nutrients to your fruit, improves air circulation, and is good training for what will be next season's floricanes. Water if rains have not been sufficient. Irrigation should continue until September. Be on the lookout for iron chlorosis if your soil pH is above 7.7. For iron chlorosis, apply iron chelate or foliar spray every three to four weeks as the label directs.
Grapes: Now is your last good opportunity to plant grape vines. Consider 'Champanel' or 'Victoria Red' (a Texas Superstar!) for table grapes, 'Lomanto' for red wine, and 'Miss Blanc' for white wine. Grapes need trellising, so grow them along a fence, wire trellis, porch, or pergola. Get a soil test done if you have not before, because grapes can get iron chlorosis above pH 7.4-5. Use iron chelate if your pH is high. Amend with compost. If your soil is really heavy you can plant on an elevated raised berm. In the wild they grow on the southern exposure of trees, so try to emulate that sort of sunny environment in the home setting. They will tolerate dappled shade.
Strawberries: Your fall-planted strawberries (June-bearing) should be in full production mode now, as they start ripening as soon as temperatures get warm in the spring. These strawberries produce the majority of their harvest over a two week period. Pick daily, sometimes even twice daily, and get ready to make jam or shortcake!
Lawn Care
Do NOT use a "weed and feed" product. These are really contradictory products and do not allow specialized application of a pesticide, herbicide, or fertilizer. This produces a lot of runoff pollution during rains and damages the ecosystem.
If desired, fertilize your lawn with an 8-2-4 fertilizer and follow label instructions and rates. You can also apply a light coating of compost instead. Do one or the other.
Pre-emergent herbicide is now too late, but you can mow to prevent weeds from going to seed. Leave clippings on the lawn unless it is a great deal of thatch (which would result in smothering) or there are weed seeds in it.
A warm-season lawn can now be established or overseeded, such as Bermudagrass or buffalograss. Whether from seed, plugs, or turf, keep well watered until established.
Consider aerating your lawn. You can hire a company to do this service or you can stab your lawn all over with a large garden fork. Some consider this a form of stress therapy.
Pests and Wildlife
Fire ants: These ants only become active once temperatures are above 70-75 degrees. Chances are you are already having issues with these annoying creatures. There are many ways to kill them, but check poison labels carefully, especially if you live next to a creek, have a low water table, or your area drains into a lake recharging zone. Some fire ant poisons are incredibly toxic to aquatic environments and some persist for over a year. Acephate is a fast-acting poison that becomes deactivated when wet, while hydramethylon is toxic to fish for two months after application. Just choose your method carefully!
Caterpillars: Not all caterpillars are bad! In fact, most are critical for feeding our baby songbirds (one nest of chickadees goes through 5000 caterpillars) or turning into pollinating butterflies. Expect your native passionflowers to be ravaged by Painted Lady caterpillars, probably even completely defoliated, but that is okay! Passionflower is used to it and will grow right back. Try to let nature take care of the issue (if there is even an issue at all.) Predatory insects, amphibians, and birds need something to eat!
Monarch butterflies: April through May are the peak times for the spring Monarch butterfly migration.
Consider releasing beneficial insects like trichogamma wasps, lacewings, and ladybugs to improve insect diversity. Many of these will handle your pest problems for you.
Now is a good time to install an insect hotel or establish shelter for frogs, lizards, and birds. A fallen log is a great habitat for many critters that eat spiders, bugs, and other things. Most songbirds nest within 6-8 feet of the ground, so try to leave some understory plants with your trees for them to use.
Frost Damage on Trees
—shared by Don Felan, ISA arborist
The Texas Chapter International Society of Arboriculture (ISA Texas) met on March 9, 2021, to discuss the impact of the deep freeze of 2021 on Texas trees. The top eight ISA arborists from major metro areas in Texas were on the panel. Below are some of their findings.
- Trees: Wait till July 4th to fully assess the tree. It is possible that damage will not show up for several years.
- If a branch is broken, make a cut below the break. Do not do a collar this year. This will reduce the possibility of decay at the trunk.
- Do not fertilize or water established trees this Spring.
- Palms – Very questionable. Sago palm has a possibility. Mexican fan palms are at risk. Trim the dead fronds off. Check to see if the crown is soft. If not soft, wait.
- Oaks: Do nothing. Leaves are falling because they are dried out.
- Cedar Elms may have a late leaf out.
- Crepe myrtles: They may not bloom this year and may not leaf out till August. Be patient. After August, assess the tree. If there are no leaves, cut it to the ground and let it come back from the roots.
- Newly planted trees may not have an established root system and may be at risk, especially trees under 3 inches in diameter.
- Expect established figs to die to the ground, but they will probably come back.
- Pittosporum shrub, Indian Hawthorns, and ground cover are at risk.
- Look for splits in the trees, called frost cracks. Frost cracks will cause stress on the tree. It could result in bores, cankers or die back.
March
March Checklist
by Rebecca Burrow
The "Texas Tundra" is not long behind us yet, proving once again that Texas can be crazy and the weather is not to be underestimated. Our average last frost is March15th, but we have had frosts in April before. Be prepared in case of unexpected freezes. Keep frost blankets handy or bring in tender plants and have floating row cover ready for the vegetable garden. Keep an eye on mesquite and pecan trees. They will only begin to leaf out when all frosts are past. But even with the looming threat of snow and ice, get ready to get into gear, because March is when it all begins to happen! The restfulness of winter will soon give way to spring and it all feels like so much is going on at once. There is so much to do and so little time to do it in. But take your time, gardener, and do not get overwhelmed. God intended gardening to be fun!
General Maintenance This is mulching time! Top off mulch applied in the fall and ensure there is a healthy layer around perennial plants and trees. Use organic mulches like arborist woodchips or straw. Keep mulch drawn back away from trunks and the base of plants to prevent rot. You can use plant-based fertilizers (like cottonseed meal) once the soil is 50 degrees or more. Any colder and they cannot decompose. Use a compost or soil thermometer to find out soil temperature. Or do what the Native Americans did and sit on the dirt. If it is warm, go ahead!You have just a little bit more time to do general perennial pruning. You just want to remove any branches that the winter may have killed, but it needs to be done before new growth begins. DO NOT prune spring flowering shrubs and vines (like spring only roses). Doing so cuts off all the flowers. Wait until after bloom to prune those. Do your final check on irrigation lines, hoses, and equipment before you demand full spring performance. Check for leaks and replace any faulty parts. You can reconnect your drip irrigation apparatus once the frosts are past.
Vegetables The spring garden generally starts in the latter half of March, after our average last-frost date of March 15th. Be careful though! Frosts are still possible. Check a pecan or mesquite tree. They will only leaf out when frosts have passed. If you still want to get them in the ground, be ready with floating row covers or cloches and keep an eye on the weather.You can plant brassicas like cauliflower and broccoli, as well as peas, but in Bell County they do better in our (usually) mild autumn/winter than our short spring. It is recommended to avoid them. Early in the month you may be able to get away with certain varieties of spinach, arugula, lettuce, and other cool season greens however. Pick early varieties (40 days to maturity or less) that will finish growing before our heat hits in May. Place your colder season vegetables in the shade of hot weather ones, like corn or a cucumber trellis, to block them from the hot western sun.Till in winter cover crops early this month and wait 2-3 weeks for them to decompose before planting new plants in that area. Decomposition uptakes nitrogen during the process, but once completed is a buffet for hungry new transplants and seeds. All vegetable types for March assume that frosts are past and the soil is at least 55 degrees, but melons, okra, sweet potatoes, and peppers want it least 65 degrees. This is weather dependent. It may take longer. Many warm weather seeds, like corn, will just rot in cold soil. Do not be impatient and waste seed or transplants. Test the soil temperature first and have row cover ready in case of snap freezes if the mesquite is not budding yet.This picture shows a great way to plant tomato transplants. Bury them! Remove any lower leaves and keep a nice tuft above ground. You cannot do this with any other vegetable, but you can with tomatoes. Only tomatoes will root along the stem. This is particularly good for long, leggy plants that are way too tall and will just break in the wind. More root equals stronger, more robust plants!
Plant transplants for eggplant, pepper, tomato, herbs of all kindsSow seed for: beans, corn, cucumber, warm-season greens, mustard, pumpkin, radish, summer squash, winter squash, herbs, and turnips.
Ornamentals Most potted plants can be planted later in the month (this of course depends on freezes), whether perennial shrubs, roses, ornamental grasses, or potted trees. The soil is not warm enough for warm season tubers like caladiums.
Wildflowers Sow seed for most spring and summer blooming native wildflowers. A lot of annual flowers are coming in now, like geraniums, snapdragons, and sweet alyssum. The warmer weather annuals should wait until the end of the month, or until after our last frost (marigold, zinnia, coleus, etc.) Wait until frost has passed for warm weather seeds as well.You still have a little time to divide or move dormant perennials and shrubs early in the month, but you probably should have done it back in January or February. Get to it!
Trees Do not prune or cut oak trees if you can help it. Opinions are mixed, but it may be a good idea to spray a tree sealant on accidental injuries to an oak such as a brokenlimb from a storm. Fruit trees: You can plant potted trees, but not bareroot ones. Water well and mulch deeply. Consider using a mycorrhizal inoculant to encourage good soil microbiota. Do not spray pesticides on fruit trees while they are blooming so you do not hurt beneficial pollinators.
Citrus They require high nitrogen during the growing season. Use bloodmeal, cottonseed meal, a fertilizer specially formulated for citrus, or other nitrogen fertilizer. Blackberries: Prima canes are this year's growth and only produce leaves (as opposed to last year's floricanes that produce fruit). Prune back prima canes once they are 3-4 feet tall to encourage floricane branching and increase yields.
Lawn Care Now is the time to lay new Bermuda or St. Augustine sod. Bermuda is starting to come out of winter dormancy and is ready to take off. You must wait if using seed for most lawn grasses, except for buffalograss. If you choose to aerate your lawn, especially more trafficked areas, use a hollow-tine aerator that does not compact the soil around the hole. Apply a pre-emergent herbicide to established lawns to prevent weed seeds from sprouting. Follow label directions to prevent herbicide runoff and lightly irrigate to get the herbicide to the soil level. If aerating, wait until that is finished before applying herbicides.Do not use weed-and-feed products. Why feed the weeds?Mow to remove the dead tips of dormant grass and small weeds, but wait until late March or April to fertilize.
You should not have thatch problems unless you over-fertilize or overwater.
Pests and Wildlife Mason bees are emerging now (they may have started in late February depending on the
weather.) They are critical pollinators for early blooming plants and trees. Do not spray pesticides or herbicides on blooming plants so as to not hurt these important pollinators. Also plant early blooming plants to feed them. Consider building female bees a nesting block to give them a place to lay their eggs and a stash of clay or mud to use as well. Clean blocks every year to prevent fungal problems.Aphids and caterpillars can become a problem once the weather warms. Try to let nature do the work for you. Ladybugs will arrive in short order to eat those sweet tasty aphids. Songbirds need caterpillars to feed their hungry chicks. One little brood of chickadees will eat 3000 caterpillars! Give them a chance. If something gets infested, consider using less toxic methods of control instead of pesticides and sprays. Sometimes simply cutting off a particularly aphid infested part is enough to get it back under control. Insecticidal soap is another option.
February Checklist
by Rebecca Burrow
General Maintenance
Our last frost should be quickly approaching (average March 15th, but sometimes comes earlier!) Start getting ready for the spring hustle by making sure garden equipment is clean, hoses are in good repair, and other equipment is in good condition.
Want to know if the last freeze has occurred? Go find a mesquite or pecan tree. They will not start to leaf out until the last freeze is past. (Mind, it can still get pretty cold, but it won't freeze).
Prune deciduous trees and shrubs. Herbaceous perennials like American beautyberry and Texas lantana can be cut down to the ground and all of the old wood removed, as they completely regrow every year. How you prune depends on your plant (spring bloomers should only be pruned after they bloom). Study up on the plant's proper care. Some trees and shrubs require almost no pruning whatsoever, or even are averse to it. However, sometimes even the staunchest native may need a bit of a cleanup to remove dead wood, limbs too low to the ground, or branches overhanging a building.
Vegetables
February is considered the start of spring veggie gardening here in Central Texas. A lot of things can be done already, (keep tending your indoor hot-weather transplants), but keep in mind that it can still freeze. Be prepared to cover tender plants if necessary. You never know what the weather will throw at you.
Perennial herbs can be divided. Do this every 3-4 years with established plants.
Plant transplants for: asparagus (crowns), potato (seed potatoes)
Sow seed for: beets, carrot, Swiss chard, cool-season greens, lettuce, mustard, radish, spinach, and turnip
Ornamentals
Just about any potted perennial can be planted at this time. Roses, trees, evergreens,
Summer and fall blooming perennial flowers can be transplanted and divided in anticipation of spring growth.
Crepe myrtles: People are still pruning these trees, so let us just tell you. Do not be an offender. Do not commit crepe murder. Lopping off your tree does not increase the quantity of blooms and the weak 1-year old wood cannot even withstand the weight of its own flowers. Leave the tree alone. All it needs is for diseased or dead wood to be cut off as well as suckers to be removed from the base. It will grow a naturally beautiful vase shape all by itself. If your tree gets too big for its spot, cut it down and get a more suitable tree.
Ornamental Grass: Prune around this time. If you have a native clumping grass like Lindheimer Muhly, Mexican Feathergrass, or Sideoats Grama, hold off on the shears! All a native grass needs is a good fluffing. Do not hack them down like you would a Pampas grass. Take some good leather gloves and make upward raking motions with open hands. This removes dead matter while maintaining the plant itself. Another option for the adventurous is to very carefully and selectively burn your native clumping grasses (the Ladybird Johnson Wildflower Center is experimenting on this method of maintenance). Native grasses like being burned occasionally as it simulates natural prairie conditions. Be careful and keep a hose ready.
Roses: now is the time to prune roses. The goal of pruning roses is to create an open, vase-like form to improve circulation and prevent disease. Humidity and stagnation are the biggest problems for roses in Central Texas, so good air flow is critical. Go to
How to Prune Roses https://www.heirloomroses.com/info/care/how-to/pruning/
for information on pruning roses. Knockout roses can be cut to 1 ½ feet due to their stupendous vertical growth. Repeat-blooming antique roses should only be cut back a 1/3 of their current size. DO NOT prune spring-only bloomers yet, as you will cut all the buds off. Train your climbing roses at this time as well by tying the canes down to their support. Do not let them get unruly!
Trees and Fruit
Look for and remove hanging bags of bark on pecans and other trees, which can be a sign of impending bagworm issues.
Citrus: About now is when to start fertilizing citrus trees. Continue fertilizing through October. Nitrogen is normally all they require. For organic fertilizers, use compost or blood meal. Avoid plant-based fertilizers such as cottonseed meal until it warms up more. Go to https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/citrus/nutrition/L2288.htm for how to fertilize citrus.
Grapes: This is a good time to plant dormant bare-root vines (best time for container plants too). Dig a hole only big enough for the root system and do not add fertilizer. Water deeply. Cut off all but the most vigorous cane and prune it back to two buds.
Strawberries: The June-bearing strawberries you planted in the fall may be producing right about now! It could take them until March depending on the weather. They will continue through spring. Be diligent with watering and weeding and invite friends for strawberry shortcake!
Lawn Care
Do not fertilize yet! Wait until April and avoid "weed-and-feed" products. They really do not work. Rather in the meantime, get a soil-test done to determine what needs to be supplemented and measure your lawn area to know quantity. That way you know what actually needs to be done and how much. Fertilizer runoff and pollution is a serious issue to conserving our rivers and groundwater.
You can apply a pre-emergent herbicide to your lawn. Be careful to not get it around the root-zone of trees and do not use on a windy day. Since you measured your lawn, you know exactly how much to apply to prevent runoff pollution. Make sure you use an herbicide suitable for your type of lawn.
Pests and Wildlife
Keep an eye out for the Emerald Ash Borer beetle, which is steadily creeping into Texas killing all of our ash trees. Go to https://tfsweb.tamu.edu/eab/ for more information. If you think you have seen one, take a picture and send it to your local Extension agent or Master Gardener association. We would rather have a false alarm than not know if there really is one!
January
by Rebecca Burrow
General Maintenance
January is the start of a new year and the start of a new gardening season for central Texas. The ground does not freeze solid here, so we have the privilege and opportunity to do during the winter what we generally would do any other time. Water. Plant. Harvest. Enjoy.
Prune deciduous trees and shrubs. Herbaceous perennials like American beautyberry and Texas lantana can be cut down to the ground and all of the old wood removed, as they completely regrow every year. How you prune depends on your plant. Study up on the plant's proper care. Some trees and shrubs require almost no pruning whatsoever, or even are averse to it. However, sometimes even the staunchest native may need a bit of a cleanup to remove dead wood, limbs too low to the ground, or branches overhanging a building.
You may have an old (real) Christmas tree from the Christmas holidays. Resist the urge to chop it up for mulch or compost, as they are almost always heavily sprayed with pesticides and herbicides that could harm your plants. Consider calling up your local zoo. Some zoos recycle old Christmas trees as enrichment for their animals. It would be a good use for an old tree!
Vegetables
The spring veggie garden starts now! A little prep work in January will reap large rewards come spring and summer.
Many summer plants such as tomatoes often take a long time to mature, which can make growing them from seed a challenge. However, the growing season can be easily extended by growing transplants (young potted plants) indoors. Transplants jump start the summer garden and greatly widen your cultivar options so you can have a lot of fun with your veggie garden!
Also consider planting cold-tolerant herbs such as dill, thyme, calendula, and chervil. Cilantro also likes the cool weather, but may need frost protection.
Prepare your seed potatoes for planting in February. It is best to let cut potatoes dry for a few weeks to prevent rot once planted. Go to http://howtogrowpotatoes.website/index.php/seed-potatoes-planting-sprouting-chitting-storing/preparing-seed-potatoes/ for information on seed potatoes.
Start transplants for: eggplant, pepper, tomato
Plant transplants for: asparagus (crowns), bulbing onion (transplants or sets)
Sow seed for: beets, carrot, cool-season greens, lettuce, peas (English, snap, snow), radish, and spinach
Ornamentals
Plant annual transplants like pansies, calendula, ornamental kale, and larkspur. Generally any cold-tolerant perennial can also be planted, as well as groundcovers like frogfruit or liriope, and roses. Evergreens do not go dormant like deciduous plants, but they do slow down, and winter cold is easier to deal with than summer heat!
Do you need to move a plant somewhere else or divide a huge stand of irises? Now is the time to do it! Prune back upper branches to reduce shock. Choose a cool winter day and dig up as much of the root ball as you can. For grasses and shrubs, try to preserve a root mass equal in size to the crown. For things like irises, cut back the green leaves to 5-6 inches.
The branches of forsythia, quince, jasmine, and other similar plants can be brought indoors to force early blooms. The bulbs of hyacinth, narcissus, and crocus can be similarly forced at around this time.
Clean up your houseplants. Dust can clog the pores on leaves, so take a little time to wipe down your houseplants. Rotate the plant if you notice it leaning towards the light (it may also need a more southern exposure during the weaker light of winter). Fungus gnats can be an issue if the soil is too wet. Houseplants do not need to be watered as often in the winter. Also be on the lookout for spider mites, mealybugs, and scale insects.
Trees
Ideal time to plant fruiting and ornamental trees. They are dormant during the winter and suffer much less from transplant shock. Go to https://easttexasgardening.tamu.edu/2014/07/16/planting-trees/ for planting trees.
Fruit trees: For increased production, prune your fruit trees annually at around this time. This is called a dormant prune. Do not prune earlier, as trees around here have not been dormant very long. The ideal time is right before bud break, which usually occurs around mid-January to February depending on the weather and the type of tree. Go to https://modernfarmer.com/2015/02/right-cut/ for general pruning information. Pome fruits like apples and pears are pruned to a central leader system while stone fruit (peach, plum, nectarine, apricot) are pruned to an open center reminiscent of a martini glass. Young trees (1-2 years old) need pruning to establish a good foundation for long years of productivity. Older trees, especially mature trees, need cleaning up to keep good air and sunlight moving through their branches.
Peaches: For trees 3+ years old, 40-50% of the tree should wind up on the ground when you dormant prune. Peaches overgrow more than any other and need to be brought back down to size or they will just break themselves apart. Consider spraying your peach trees around the first of the year with neem oil to reduce scale insects and a sulfur-based spray as a fungicide.
Grapes: This is the ideal time to plant dormant bare-root vines (best time for container plants too). Dig a hole only big enough for the root system and do not add fertilizer. Water deeply. Cut off all but the most vigorous cane and prune it back to two buds.
Lawn Care
Your lawn is generally still dormant and not yet into its spring growth, but it is still alive and needs watering. Use a rain gauge. If it doesn't rain much for a couple weeks, water the lawn to prevent dessication. Drought is the largest killer of a winter lawn. It can still get to 75 degrees in January, so evaporation is still an issue. But you do not have to mow, so hooray!
Now, if you have a buffalograss lawn, do nothing. It survives just fine on 10-15 inches of water per year (Bell County receives 25-35). It needs no added supplementation. Watering it too much actually makes it unhealthy.
Pests and Wildlife
This is a dearth season for many native birds. Consider providing a high-energy birdseed during the winter months to make up for food shortages. Place feeders where prowling cats cannot make a meal out of your favorite cardinal. If you notice many birds taking advantage, it may mean there are not enough native food sources in your location. You may want to mull over adding native plants to your garden that supply winter food for songbirds, such as American beautyberry, Texas persimmon, or Possumhaw holly.
December
by Rebecca Burrow
General Maintenance
Deciduous Perennials: You can prune perennial shrubs once they are dormant and all the leaves have fallen off. This usually happens around now (depending on the weather of course). Be vigorous with native shrubs like lantana and deciduous salvia. Such shrubs completely regrow from the base every season. Cut them down within a few inches of the ground. Leave your native hollies and American Beautyberry alone until the birds have eaten all their fruit.
There is not as much to do in the deep winter garden once dormant pruning is accomplished, mulch is applied, and the garden is generally cleaned up. Use this peaceful opportunity to study up on gardening topics that interest you. Maybe you heard of hugelkulture and wonder what in the world that is and whether it could work for you, or perhaps you are curious about landrace breeding your own melons (it's easier than you might think!)
Vegetables
Now is the time to plan next year's garden. Go through the notes you have kept all year to see what plants performed well for you and are worth growing next year. Plan where, when, and how many to suite your needs. Maybe the rhubarb did terribly, but the beets outperformed expectations. Consider planting something new as well to keep it fun and interesting.
If you are planning a new garden, get a soil test done to see what kind of soil you have to work with. You can get soil test kits at your local county Extension office. The soil test will tell you your soil pH, which will determine what plants you can use, as well as nutrient levels, so you can balance the soil as needed.
• Sow seed for: cool-season greens, lettuce, radish, and spinach
Ornamentals
Good time to transplant perennial plants and grasses. Prune back upper branches to reduce shock. Choose a cool winter day and dig up as much of the root ball as you can. For grasses and shrubs, try to preserve a root mass equal in size to the crown.
• Bulbs: Plant the tulips and hyacinths you put in your fridge back in October. Make sure at least 45 days have passed, though 60 days is better.
• Crape myrtles: Stop pruning your crape myrtles. We call it "crepe murder" around here and it is completely unnecessary. Lopping off your tree does not increase the quantity of blooms and the weak 1-year old wood cannot even withstand the weight of its own flowers. Leave the tree alone. All it needs is for diseased or dead wood to be cut off as well as suckers to be removed from the base. It will grow a naturally beautiful vase shape all by itself. If your tree gets too big for its spot, cut it down and get a more suitable tree.
Trees
This is the ideal time to plant trees. Consider using a mychorrizal inoculant during planting time to greatly increase root development and tree health. Trees desire a fungal environment and need fungi in order to better uptake many important nutrients from the soil. Always mulch your newly planted trees as well and keep grass away from them!
• This includes cold-tolerant citrus such as Satsuma mandarins, kumquat, and tangerines. There is an embargo on citrus trees from outside of Texas due to citrus greening disease in Florida and Louisiana, so you cannot order citrus from nurseries outside of Texas. (If you ever find citrus trees for sale that were not grown in Texas, tell your extension agent immediately!)
• Most deciduous trees are dormant or are going dormant by now. This dormancy makes them much more tolerant of temperature, water, and pretty much anything done to them. Plant them now to take advantage of this. You have up until early February.
It is also an ideal time to see whether you have mistletoe. If you do, try to cut it off. If your tree is absolutely covered in mistletoe, you may want to consider its removal because it is in a serious decline it probably cannot recover from. A healthy tree can largely resist mistletoe, but a weak, sick tree becomes susceptible. Mistletoe does not cause decline, but it is a symptom.
Lawn Care
• Continue to water depending on rainfall. More grass dies from dehydration than from the cold in winter. If it doesn't rain, water your grass (you do not even need an inch per week). Water before you expect a frost to protect roots from the cold.
• Since you will probably not be watering that often, now is a good time to inspect your sprinkler system. Remove the spraying heads and replace any damaged ones.
Pests and Wildlife
Many birds are migrating at this time. Consider putting out a bird feeder with sunflower seeds, millet, dried fruit, and suet to feed local songbirds. Keep bird feeders away from death zones like tall grasses or bushes, ledges, or wall corners to keep our feathered friends from falling prey to outdoor cats. Higher is generally better.
Winter is a good time to enjoy the outdoors in Bell County and take a stroll around your garden during our often pleasant afternoons. Look at the shapes. Maybe come spring you can put an evergreen in an empty looking spot or select a more sculptural plant, like Texas Persimmon or a native agave, to give architectural interest during the winter. Maybe the bright red fruits of native Yaupon holly would look good in one area of your garden. Whereas spring and summer bring a lot of color, the winter garden is about physical form and pleasing shapes. Have fun with your winter garden!
November
by Rebecca Burrow
General Maintenance
Frost will now be an issue if you have any sensitive plants, such as citrus, most succulents, or roses. Place tropicals and other houseplants in a sunny southern window or greenhouse. Make sure you put a tray beneath the pot to protect your floor.
• Hose off plants to remove any unwanted hitchhikers before you bring them in your house. Wipe off any spider webs.
• Consider whether the plant should be repotted to a bigger container. You are moving it anyway so now is a decent time to do it.
• Acclimate your plants by at first just bringing them in at night, so they get used to the decreased light and humidity. This can help prevent leaf drop. Gradually increase the time indoors until they are inside all the time.
• Water only when the soil is dry. Make sure not to water so much it spills out of the bottom tray!
• Houseplants do not need much fertilizer over the winter. Depending on the plant, use either a small quantity of slow-release fertilizer or a half-strength liquid fertilizer about once a month.
November usually means storms for central Texas, so periodically keep your garden beds clean by picking up downed branches and debris. Clean your gardening tools. Sharpen the blades of shovels, trimmers, and loppers. Apply a thin coat of machine oil to lubricate moving parts and prevent rust, especially on pruning shears. Use diluted bleach to disinfect trimmers as well. Linseed oil is good for wooden handles. Consider making a sand bucket with sand and motor oil to keep tools rust-free.
Mulch your perennial beds if you have not already. A good 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch is ideal and helps moderate temperature extremes. Bag up fallen leaves and compost them for use around your garden. Go to https://counties.agrilife.org/aransas/files/2011/08/Compost-Leaves.pdf for more information on composting leaves.
Prepare for freezes by insulating faucets and draining garden hoses. Gutters may need to be cleaned as well. Consult your owner's manual for information on winterizing your lawn mower and other engine-powered equipment.
Vegetables
Pay attention to the weather. Before the first frost, pick the fruit from tender plants such as tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers. Tomatoes can ripen indoors if put in a sealed paper bag, or alternatively, make fried green tomatoes (invite friends over if you do!) For frosts and extended periods of cold weather, consider using the variety of season-extenders over frost-tender plants, such as row cover tunnels using landscaping plastic and hoops. Milk jugs and other cloches are a useful method for individual plants. Go to https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/vgen/row-covers-for-garden-plants.htm for information on row covers. Remove the fabric when the temperature gets above 45 degrees to keep from baking your plants. This is Texas. It can still get to 80 degrees in the winter! Of course, the easiest way to get around frosts and freezing weather is to only plant
things than can tolerate it, like kale and other cool-season greens. Remove asparagus tops and compost them. Save the seeds from heirloom varieties to enlarge your patch.
Our average first frost is November 15, but it sometimes occurs earlier. Many root veggies such as carrots, turnips, and parsnips sweeten after a frost or two. Parsnips need this cold treatment for best flavor and can stay in the ground for a month after frosts start.
• Plant transplants for: kale
• Sow seed for: garlic, cool-season greens, lettuce, mustard, radish, shallot, spinach,
and turnip
Ornamentals
Prune the dead wood of herbaceous perennials, such as lantana and beautyberry, after the first couple of freezes.
• Bulbs: Continue to plant spring-blooming bulbs up until the 1 st week of December. Force paperwhite bulbs for holiday blooms.
• Succulents: Bring frost-tender succulents indoors. Many succulents, such as Echeveria, actually bloom during the winter, though some go dormant. Keep taking care of them as usual, but be careful not to overwater as the cold
temperatures keep them wetter for longer. Remove dead leaves so they do not rot.
Consider filling dead holes with new cuttings. Go to https://thesucculenteclectic.com/propagating-succulents-stem-cuttings/ for more information on this easy method. Place them in the sunniest location you have and rotate the pot if they start to lean towards the light.
• Roses: Grafted roses are not as cold-tolerant as own-root roses and need to be protected from a hard frost. Mound up straw or soil around the root zone as insulation. Keep your roses watered during the winter if there are no sufficient rains (usually not an issue, but still needs to be considered.)
• Evergreens: All evergreen plants still lose water through their leaves during the winter, unlike deciduous plants with no leaves. Continue to water them through the winter if there is not enough rain.
• Ornamental grasses: Unless they look unthrifty, you can largely leave your ornamental grasses alone until early spring. If native grasses need a pick-me-up, just put on a good pair of leather gloves and fluff them with open hands, going in an upward motion to remove dead leaves. This is especially good for muhly grasses.
Trees
Ideal time to plant fruiting and ornamental trees!
• This includes cold-tolerant citrus such as Satsuma mandarins, kumquat, and tangerines. There is an embargo on citrus trees from outside of Texas due to citrus greening disease in Florida and Louisiana, so you cannot order citrus from nurseries outside of Texas. (If you ever find citrus trees for sale that were not grown in Texas, tell your extension agent immediately!)
• Most deciduous trees are dormant or are going dormant by now. This dormancy makes them much more tolerant of temperature, water, and pretty much anything done to them. Plant them now to take advantage of this. You have up until early February.
• Citrus: Plant outdoor citrus trees in full sunlight with a very well-drained soil. Place where it will be protected from gusty north winds. If you have a sunny south-facing rock or brick wall, consider espalier. This technique was invented to
grow a tree farther north than it would typically tolerate. Go to https://www.epicgardening.com/espalier-fruit-trees/ for more information. Lemons are the perfect candidate for an informal espalier. Go to https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/fruit-nut/fact sheets/citrus/ for more information on protecting citrus trees from frost.
Lawn Care
There is not much to do with your lawn once November and cold temperatures hit. The grass generally goes into dormancy and you probably did your last real mowing in October. It is too late for fertilizer and pre-emergents as they would stimulate new growth that could freeze off. If you have winter weeds, all you can really do is pull them.
• You can amend lightly with compost, but that is just about all you want to do. It will add a bit of insulation and decompose very slowly over the winter.
• Continue to water depending on rainfall. More grass dies from dehydration than from the cold in winter. If it doesn't rain, water your grass (you do not even need an inch per week). Water before you expect a frost to protect roots from the cold.
• Since you will probably not be watering that often, now is a good time to inspect your sprinkler system. Remove the spraying heads and replace any damaged ones.
Pests and Wildlife
Many birds are migrating at this time. Consider putting out a bird feeder with sunflower seeds, millet, dried fruit, and suet to feed local songbirds. Keep bird feeders away from death zones like tall grasses or bushes, ledges, or wall corners to keep our feathered friends from falling prey to outdoor cats. Higher is generally better. Insects are not much of a problem once the first frost hits. Winter is actually a good time to enjoy the outdoors in Bell County, as it can still get warm during the afternoon. This is a good time to take a stroll around your garden and just enjoy the space without sweltering sun or mosquitoes accosting you. Look at the shapes. Maybe come spring you can put an evergreen in an empty looking spot or select a more sculptural plant, like Texas Persimmon or a native agave, to give architectural interest during the winter. Whereas spring and summer bring a lot of color, the winter garden is about physical form and pleasing shapes. Have fun with your winter garden!
SEPTEMBER and OCTOBER
by Rebecca Burrow
General Maintenance
September usually brings in our first fall rains. Start cutting back on watering perennials and trees to harden them off for winter. New growth may freeze in November, so do not fertilize. Remove fallen wood underneath trees to reduce insect infestations.
If it doesn't rain for an extended time, continue to water evergreen plants. Unlike
deciduous plants, they continue to lose water over the winter if it is above 40
degrees.
Consider putting in rain barrels or a rain tank to capture rainwater coming off
your roof. This water is more acidic than tap water and free of chlorine. Plants
always prefer rainwater if it is available. Capturing rainwater can also reduce your
landscape water bill. The Bell County Master Gardener Association hosts periodic
rain barrel classes where you get to make and take home your own rain barrel. Go
to https://txmg.org/bell/water-collection-rain-barrel-workshop/ for more
information.
Vegetables
Sow fall cover crops such as buckwheat, annual ryegrass, and oats. If you are planting a fall and winter garden, sow your cover crop between rows and any open areas. Till under the cover crop before they go to seed and at least two weeks before planting vegetables in
the spring.
Plant perennial herbs such as thyme and rosemary.
Fall Vegetable Gardens: This is when the fall garden starts, which is a fantastic growing season in Bell County. If you planned ahead, you started transplants from seed back in July and they will be ready to plant around the middle of this month (depending on the heat of course.)
• Plant transplants for: artichoke, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower,
collards, kale, and kohlrabi
• Sow seed for: beets, carrot, Swiss chard, and peas (English, snap, snow)
Ornamentals
Threat of disease: Mid-September rains and increased humidity can bring back the threat of disease, such as black spot, fungus, and powdery mildew, not to mention slugs.
- Roses: Be on the lookout for Black Spot as September and October rains increase humidity. Prune rambling and large-flowering climbing roses after they finish blooming.
Go to https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/archives/parsons/publications/roses/prune.html for more information. - Wildflowers: Most native wildflowers, such as bluebonnets, mature and cast off seed now. Mimic this by doing the same thing. Sow your spring-blooming wildflower seeds. Alternatively, you can save the seed from spent summer bloomers such as liatris, coneflower, and coreopsis for sowing in the spring. If saving seed, allow them to mature and dry completely before storage.
- Many perennial bunching plants such as iris, cast iron plant, and hostas can be divided if beds are crowded. Remove all plants, spread out a thick layer of compost, and replant. Leave ample space between plants so you do not have to divide every year. Extra plants are free and can be put elsewhere in your garden (or given to friends!)
Trees
- Apply a fall layer of mulch around all trees. Do not add compost, just good organic mulch such as woodchips. It helps retain more water over the course of winter and insulates the soil, which aids against frost.
- Remove any grass around the root flare. The grass can encourage insects to travel up the tree and hang out for the winter.
Lawn Care
- Do not mow too low. Early September can still get really hot, which reduces drought resistance, as well as allowing too much light to get to the soil surface. When September rains hit, it is a recipe for weeds. Mow high, if at all.
- Cut back on irrigation once rains have returned. It is better to irrigate deeply once or twice a week instead of every day, to deepen the grass' roots and increase drought resistance. This also helps prepare warm-season grasses for winter
dormancy. - With Bermuda grass lawns, September is the time for optional over seeding. Bermuda grass goes dormant in the winter, so some people choose to over seed with a cool-season grass such as annual ryegrass or rough bluegrass. This keeps the lawn green. If you want to over seed, now is the time to do it!
- Fertilizer: Fall application. You can now fertilize St. Augustine and Bermuda grass lawns at 1/2 cup of nitrogen fertilizer per 1000 sq. ft. More is not better. Too much fertilizer weakens the grass. Do not fertilize Buffalo grass lawns.
Pests and Wildlife
- Fall webworms can be an issue, especially on pecan trees. If possible, take a long stick and break open the webbing for birds and wasps to eat the caterpillars inside. Low-hanging branches can be cut off if particularly infested.
- St. Augustine grass: Look out for chinch bugs and diseases such as brown patch and take-all root rot. They can both occur when the humidity is high and temperatures are moderate. Brown patch fungus makes a smoke-ring as the fungus moves outward. Take-all root rot turns leaves yellow and eventually kills them.
August
by Rebecca Burrow
General
Please stay aware of the heat, because it can creep up on you in the early morning. Gardens are for rest, not for passing out.
Install your fall application of organic mulch. Spring mulch has mostly decayed by now and some soil may be bare, leaving it exposed to drying out and even blowing away in the wind. Properly mulched plants tolerate drought much better than plants without mulch. Mulch can keep the soil 10 to 20 degrees cooler than exposed soil and that matters a lot when it is a 100 degrees outside! The fluffier the mulch, the deeper it has to be. Straw should be 4-6 inches deep while arborist wood chips and other similar mulches can be 2-3 inches deep.
Do not fertilize plants in general, because the salts draw water out of the plant. If you absolutely must fertilize, make sure you water deeply and use an organic liquid fertilizer like seaweed emulsion.
Water deeply and check soil moisture to 3 inches deep to ensure that roots have actually received water. August rains usually are not that penetrating (it tends to evaporate quickly).
Vegetables
You may be surprised to know that you can actually plant corn, summer squash, and a few other summer vegetables in August. The key to success with this is to plant early maturing varieties that can finish the harvest before November freezes, so stick with cultivars that are 60 days or less.
Watering is the name of the game during the high heat of summer. Use whatever method you need, but keep your veggies watered! The traditional olla pot is a wonderful, efficient, and fast method of watering if you do not have a drip irrigation system. They are buried unglazed terracotta pots with a lid that you fill with water. I can never find one though, so I often use empty coffee cans with holes poked in them. Do what you have to do!
Potatoes: Did you know there are determinate and indeterminate potatoes? Determinate have a harvest of less than 70 days while longer than 90 days are indeterminate (the 70-90 days can go either way). I like to make potato towers, but the method differs based on the potato. Determinate: plant the seed potatoes along the outside rim so they grow horizontally, leaving a small hole for the plant to grow out through. The plant's leaves will grow outside the tower cage. You will get the same quantity of harvest as putting them directly in the ground. Indeterminate: plant the potatoes in a center ring and allow them to grow upwards. Mound up dirt 3-4 times around the growing plant until the soil height is around 18 inches. The plant will not produce more potatoes along the stem above this height.
Plant transplants for: potato (seed potatoes), (you can also do pepper, tomato, and eggplant during the first half of the month, but hurry up!)
Sow seed for: beans, cucumber, corn, warm-season greens, and summer squash
Ornamentals
Now is the time to sow bluebonnet seed! They need to germinate before frost and grow over the winter to flower in the spring. They prefer disturbed, poor, well-drained soil. The seeds are hard so scarify them with sandpaper or a knife, but only do this if you plan on watering them for a couple months. Otherwise, leave the seeds alone. Plant as you would other wildflowers and ensure good seed-to-soil contact. Go to https://www.wildflower.org/learn/how-to/grow-bluebonnets for more information and tips for growing bluebonnets from seed.
Sow seed for cool-season annuals like snapdragon, dianthus, and pansies so you can plant them out in October. Keep flats either indoors or in a shady, protected area of the garden.
Containers: container plants can dry out extremely quickly and may require daily watering. This also means that nutrients leach out faster, so regularly fertilize with a water soluble fertilizer, like seaweed emulsion, as needed.
Roses: late August and early September is a good time for end-of-season pruning for ever-blooming roses (spring-blooming only roses have already been pruned and can be left alone). Remove dead canes and other hindering growth. This should be your last pruning of the year so that new growth can harden off to prevent frost damage. You may even get a final flush of blooms in October (but be on the lookout for black spot!)
Trees
Continue to water fruit trees through the heat, particularly since August tends to experience very little rainfall. A drip irrigation system is ideal, especially if you have a simple timer installed. Regardless of the method though, you want deep and thorough water penetration. Aim for 1-2 inches of water per week if the temperature is on average above 98 degrees.
Be particularly careful with your persimmon trees, as they can drop their fruit with drought or uneven watering.
Lawn Care
Do not mow if you don't have to. You want the blades high and shading the soil underneath to improve drought resistance, but also so that weeds do not burst forth when September rains arrive. If you must mow, do not remove more than 1/3 of the blade height.
Weed killers can generally not be used in the August heat. Most cannot be used above 85 degrees.
There is not a lot of rain and the scorching sun sucks water from your lawn. Do not be tempted to water every day, as this causes your lawn to be susceptible to drought stress. Water as infrequently (but also as deeply!) as you can get away with.
Chinch bugs can be an issue this time of year. They prefer hot, dry, sunny lawns, particularly St. Augustine. Look for large irregular patches of wilting, yellowing, and dying grass. Chinch bugs suck the grass dry, so the blades are still attached to the roots (unlike with white grubs). Water the lawn before applying a pesticide so the bugs climb to the top of the grass.
Pests and Wildlife
Rainfall and humidity will determine what pests start arriving now or later in September. More rain equals earlier pests such as fall webworms.
Continue to watch for aphids and spider mites, particularly after any spontaneous rains. Blast affected plants, like crepe myrtles, with a hose and make sure to get the underside of the leaves.
July 2020
by Rebecca Burrow
General Maintenance
There is no doubt that we are now in the full and burning arms of summer. Constrain gardening to the early morning or late evening hours so you do not kill yourself and stay properly hydrated. Drinking plain water may not be enough for some particularly hard-working gardeners, especially if you tend to sweat a lot. Headaches later in the day are a sign you need more electrolytes. Buy such a drink or make a simple beverage with a mineral-rich salt, honey or sugar, and non-concentrated fruit juice. Also consider taking magnesium and zinc supplements in the morning.
Be wise about the heat. The sun is physically higher in the sky than in the winter and it is not your imagination when it feels like it really is beating down on you. Spend the early mornings gardening and enjoy a nice cold watermelon in the afternoon.
In general, do not fertilize plants anymore, especially synthetic fertilizers. These fertilizers are types of salts that remove water from the plant. In the spring the plant can keep up with the rate of water removal, but with the ferocious heat and evaporation fertilizer will burn and damage your plants. The exception is potted plants which get watered often enough to compensate and vegetables which can receive liquid foliar fertilizers or compost.
Vegetables
Harvest vegetables and herbs in the early morning, preferably when the dew is still on the leaves. They are at the peak of quality and nutrition at this time. Harvested greens will stay fresher longer simply because of the dew.
It might be the middle of summer, but start now for the fall! Many of the fall garden's main plants, such as broccoli and cabbage, benefit enormously from a head start much like tomatoes and peppers do in the early spring. Start fall transplants now to plant in mid-September. This ensures they have enough time to produce a crop before frosts (possibly) kill them.
It is also time to plant those summer transplants you started back in May! Use shade cloth over these plants until they have a chance to grow and strengthen.
Tomatoes: Most tomato varieties will stop setting flowers when nighttime temperatures are on average above 75 degrees and daytime temperatures are above 90 degrees. This is to be expected and producing a lot of flowers before the heat is the single primary reason why tomato transplants are started in January or February for our growing region.
Start transplants for: artichoke, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, kale, and kohlrabi.
Plant transplants for: eggplant, pepper, tomato
Sow seed for: early-maturing corn, warm-season greens, summer squash, winter squash
Ornamentals
Check hanging baskets frequently for watering. If you can, take them down and soak them in a basin of water for several minutes. Sometimes the interior of a container can stay bone dry while the water runs off the sides. A deep soaking every once in awhile helps prevent this. Periodically use a gentle water-soluble fertilizer to replace the salts leached out by frequent watering.
Roses: around now is the time to prune spring-only blooming roses. This is their big yearly prune (not in the early spring like repeat bloomers).
Crepe myrtles: Aphids can be a problem during the summer and rain annoying honeydew from infested trees. Spray with a hose on a regular basis if this is a problem for you. The tree won't mind the extra water!
Trees and Fruit
Many types of fruit trees are either in the midst of harvest or finishing up their harvest season. Make sure to pick up any fallen fruit to keep from attracting scavengers and prevent disease issues. Most fallen fruit is suitable for eating, if not as pretty, so these make great candidates for jams and preserves (if you got to them before the bugs did.)
Continue to water fruit trees deeply once a week if it doesn't rain to prevent premature fruit drop (especially for persimmons!)
Blackberries: Prune back dead floricanes that have finished fruiting. These now useless branches will only clutter next year's growth.
Lawn Care
There is not a lot of rain and the scorching sun sucks water from your lawn. Do not be tempted to water every day, as this causes your lawn to be susceptible to drought stress. Water as infrequently (but also as deeply!) as you can get away with. The same goes for mowing. Chances are your grass will not really be growing and is going into summer dormancy. Mow as little as possible and do not remove more than 1/3 of the blade when you do.
Pests and Wildlife
Spider mites are a concern when the days are hot and dry while aphids appear when the humidity is high. Heavily infested foliage can be cut off and thrown away if beyond repair. Otherwise, spray with a hose to dislodge pests. Make sure to get the underside of the leaves.
June
by Rebecca Burrow
General Maintenance
The heat probably started back in May, but now it cannot be avoided or ignored.
Make sure everything is properly mulched. The heat is going to come fast and mulch is vital to prevent water evaporation and maintain soil moisture.
1. Use any organic mulch like arborist woodchips on perennials or straw for vegetables and herbs.
2. Do not use inorganic rubber mulches! You will never ever be able to get rid of it and it offers no beneficial decomposition and nutrients to the soil.
3. The looser the mulch the deeper it has to be. Straw should be 6 inches but arborist woodchips can be 2-3 inches deep.
Be sure to always wear a hat when out gardening, even if you are wearing sunscreen. Sunscreen is only effective when a high SPF and when applied properly. The best sun protection is simply, cover up. A 100% cotton long-sleeved shirt and a wide-brimmed hat go a long way to preventing heat exhaustion. Always bring water with you and try to garden only in the cool of the morning or late evening.
Vegetables
Generally there is not a great deal to do in June when it comes to veggies. Most things are already planted and you are simply maintaining them through the heat until harvest (keep an eye on watering and mulch). Little can stand to be planted right now, but you can sow sweet potato, melon, and squash to get a good harvest before our average first freeze in November.
Harvest veggies and herbs in the early morning for highest quality. You want the dew still on the plant, especially for salad greens and more perishable produce.
Prune herbs often to encourage vegetative growth and a nice bushy habit. Basil is particularly bad about immediately trying to go to seed when it is still all leggy. You may have to remove flowers every other day to get it to put more effort into leaves. Basil will never grow bushy and leafy without pruning.
Start transplants for: sweet potato (slips)
Sow seed for: melons, warm-season greens, okra, Southern peas, squash, and pumpkin
Ornamentals
Summer annuals can continue to be planted now, such as zinnia, sunflower, cosmos, and celosia. Ornamental grasses like Gulf Muhly can also be planted, but you are getting to the end of the season. You have now run out of time for most perennials and trees. The heat and higher angle of the sun will simply be too stressful. Wait until fall dormancy.
Deadhead flowering plants to encourage more blooms. Also prune finished spring-only-bloomers if you did not do it last month.
Plant tropical plants in containers that you can bring inside at the end of the year. Lemongrass, ginger, and most succulents cannot endure frost, but grow beautifully during the summer and love the heat.
Orchids can be brought outside and hung underneath a tree in nice dappled shade (but not too much sun or they will burn.) They would particularly like being near a pond or water source for the increased humidity. Phalaenopsis and Vanda species desire at least 80% humidity but only 20% light.
Trees
Pay attention to water. Drip irrigation makes this simple and easy with a timer. Simple rotary timers are cheap and effortless, though more expensive programmable models exist for even more automation. Deeply water trees weekly if there have been no decent rains. Water blackberries twice a week if the temperatures are routinely over 95 degrees.
Blackberries: For erect blackberries, prune the whole plant back after the summer harvest is completed. Some producers cut them down to one foot in height to remove dead canes, but anywhere between 1-3 feet is suitable. For late-ripening varieties, do not prune less than 3 feet, as this can seriously reduce future yield.
Lawn Care
Watering is the name of the game. Proper watering is essential to good growth and drought resistance through our hot summers. Train your lawn to be drought resistant. This is your last month before the real heat starts. If you can train your lawn now while the temps are still (kind of) low, it will serve you well in July and August.
1. Do not water at all if there has been ½ inch of rainfall that week. You might need to water more when the average temperatures go over 95 degrees, but until then, ½ inch of water a week is good.
2. Water as infrequently as possible. If you don't have to water, don't. Try to get down to only once a week.
3. Water deeply and for a longer period of time when you do water. It is much better to water once a week for an hour than three times a week for 20 minutes. Having added compost in the spring increases water holding capacity for times like this.
4. Water at night or in the early early morning (like 3-6 am) to eliminate evaporation. You want your grass (particularly St. Augustine) to dry off as quickly as possible in the morning to prevent fungal problems.
This infrequent watering not only strengthens your lawn, but it also uses a lot less water over the long term.
Mowing: The heat is starting to set in so do not mow too low. Never cut more 1/3 of the blade at any one time. St. Augustine should be maintained at 2.5 (sun) to 3.5 (shade) inches. Bermuda and Zoysia should be at least 1.5-2 inches. Buffalograss does not need to be mowed at all and should be allowed to go to seed to prevent weed problems.
Fertilizing: Stop applying fertilizer to prevent fungal disease like brown patch.
Chinch bugs: These tiny little insects eat your lawn, particularly Kentucky bluegrass, and any stressed grass. Heat stress through June and August makes small populations turn into infestations and they also prefer areas with heavy thatch. Did you train your lawn earlier in the year to be drought resistant? Mow at the recommended level for your grass and keep thatch under control. Pyrethrins can help control chinch bug populations if it is not too extreme. Also, if this seems to happen to your lawn every year you need a different lawn that is not always perpetually stressed by the heat. Consider making the switch to Buffalograss, which isn't stressed by just about anything.
Pests and Wildlife
Aphids: Always check for ladybugs (especially their larva), green lacewings, or parasitized aphids before worrying about aphids on your plants. Give nature a chance to handle the problem before intervening. Predatory insects need food too! If you have a huge infestation, then wash off aphids with a blast of water and trash damaged plant material.
Spider mites: These tiny red nuisances start becoming a real problem when it gets warm. Be on the lookout for them and their fine webbing. Contain and carefully dispose of infested plants, as the mites travel to and fro using their webs (much like a spiderling does). Mites can quickly become resistant to chemical pesticides, which also kill their predators. You can buy predatory mites to release on susceptible plants. Ladybugs and green lacewings are also helpful for control. Insectidical soap is useful for spot treatment.
Early morning is a good time to look for pests like squash bugs. They will be slow and not as active. Look underneath the leaves for hiding nymphs, larva, or eggs. A handheld cordless vacuum is particularly good for larger bugs.
May
by Rebecca Burrow
It is still spring, but it may be starting to feel a bit more like summer. May is the transition month. You are moving from "I can do anything right now I have the power" to "I have exactly two days until the heat kills everything I just planted." Use the first half of this month wisely to get necessary planting done. You do not have much longer!
General Maintenance
Keep your plants mulched and watered. Watering is really the name of the game as we head into summer. However, you want to do it properly in order to stimulate deep root development and drought resistance. Water as deeply and infrequently as you can get away with. Try to see how the plant does without supplemental water. You may be pleasantly surprised or disappointed. Either way, it is less work for you, you have stronger plants, and a lower water bill.
Many spring-blooming wildflowers have gone to seed by now. Collect the seed and dry thoroughly to plant in the fall when such plants begin their lifecycle.
Many plants, from annual to perennial, can still be planted now. But you are running out of time before summer so get to it!
Vegetables
You can get a second harvest out of summer plants like tomatoes by actually growing another set of tomatoes. If started now, transplants can be planted in July and produce a good crop by the time frosts kill them in mid-November. They enjoy the decreasing temperatures of September and October. But the window is short!
Prune indeterminate (vining) tomato plants by removing suckers. These suckers grow out of the stem between the stem and a branch at a 45 degree angle. You do not need to do this for determinate (bush) tomatoes. Go to http://www.tomatodirt.com/pruning-tomato.html for more information.
Enjoy an early morning stroll through the garden in order to find, kill, and annihilate stinkbugs, squash bugs, and other similar bugs on your plants. I particularly like a cordless handheld vacuum for squash bugs. Look for droppings on tomatoes to find that tomato hornworm you probably have. If you have chickens, they love hornworms.
Start transplants for: eggplant, pepper, sweet potato (slips), and tomato
Sow seed for: melons, warm-season greens, okra, Southern peas, pumpkin, winter squash, and watermelon
Ornamentals
Prune spring-flowering shrubs, vines, and roses. Unlike ever-blooming plants which were pruned in the winter, you can't do that with spring-only-bloomers (you cut all the flowers off). Prune them for tidiness and good open form now that their flowers have died. A breathable form, particularly in roses, is extremely helpful in our humid climate to reduce fungal disease.
Your spring-blooming bulbs are probably finished by now and the leaves have dried up. Lift, move, and divide these bulbs while you still know where they are.
Deadhead flowering plants like zinnias, geranium, and Autumn Sage to encourage frequent blooming.
Many spring annuals are going to be on their way out soon. Sow seeds for summer wildflowers and annuals like zinnia, marigold, and sunflowers. Consider getting other ornamentals like coleus, gomphrena, morning glory, and cosmos.
Trees and Fruit
Fertilize fruit trees over the whole root zone with a 2" layer of compost or 21-0-0. Do not let any fertilizer touch the trunk, as this can cause rot and disease. For older trees, they receive 1 cup of 21-0-0 per year, so a 6-year-old tree would receive 6 cups out to a radius of six feet. Instead of using fertilizer, some people have had success underplanting their fruit trees with clover or birdsfoot trefoil to provide necessary nitrogen.
Depending on the chill hours of your peach, plum, pear, or apple, you may still have to THIN. Thinning is vital. These trees almost always set way too much fruit, which can cause a tree to skip a year, make low-quality fruit, or physically break branches. You want to thin the fruit when they are the size of your thumbnail or a quarter, which probably happened back in April, but might stretch into May. Thin clusters to every 8 inches and leave one fruit.
Blackberries: This is the start of harvest season! Harvest every 2-4 days depending on the fruit firmness of the variety. And then call over your friends. While waiting for them to arrive, prune out the primocanes (first year wood growing from the base) if you have not already. Leave the two best primocanes and shorten them to 2-3 feet. This puts more energy into fruit and opens up the hedge.
Citrus: These plants need a lot of nitrogen, so stay on top of it. Apply blood meal or other nitrogen fertilizer every few weeks throughout the growing season. You can also use compost, just be sure to keep reapplying it regularly.
Strawberries: Your June-bearing strawberries have probably finished by now. You can either rip them out to make room for something else or decide to keep them going. Some people have had success with taking strawberries over the summer and letting them resume fruiting in the fall. They would need to be covered with shade cloth to prevent heat stress and consistent watering is essential.
Lawn Care
Buffalograss lawns can be seeded now. Choose native seed. Hybrid male-only seed cannot go to seed and fill itself in over time, resulting in weed issues. Buffalograss is extremely drought tolerant, requiring no irrigation, but cannot tolerate shade. Do not fertilize established buffalograss lawns.
Other warm-season turfgrass, such as Bermuda and St. Augustine, can also be established now that the temperature is warmer. Water consistently for at least a month.
Put your lawnmower to mow high. Summer is coming quickly and grass needs to shade itself a little from the sun to be more drought resistant. Do not remove more than a third of the blade at one time. Be sure to mow weeds before they go to seed.
WATERING your lawn properly is essential to good growth and drought resistance through our hot summers. Never water every day. When you do that, it does not encourage the roots to move down in search of water and the grass becomes much more susceptible to drought. It will also require more water because it doesn't have the root mass. It really is a vicious cycle. So what to do? Train your lawn. If you can train your lawn to be drought resistant now while the temps are still low, it will serve you well in the summer.
1. Do not water at all if there has been ½ inch of rainfall that week. You might need to water more when the average temperatures go over 95 degrees, but until then, ½ inch of water a week is good.
2. Water as infrequently as possible. If you don't have to water, don't. Try to get down to only once a week.
3. Water deeply and for a longer period of time when you do water. It is much better to water once a week for an hour than three times a week for 20 minutes.
4. Water at night or in the early early morning (like 3-6 am) to eliminate evaporation. You want your grass (particularly St. Augustine) to dry off as quickly as possible in the morning to prevent fungal problems.
This infrequent watering not only strengthens your lawn, but it also uses a lot less water over the long term. Some cities have water restrictions so this factor is important.
Pests and Wildlife
Consider feeding resident songbirds and supplying a clean water source. They could use a little pick-me-up while caring for their voracious chicks. Make sure water sources are either shallow or have an entry ramp to allow slightly idiotic critters to be able to get out. Place feeders in a clear open space away from places cats could hide. You want to feed the birds, not the cat!
Aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites can be a problem. Keep on the lookout and consider releasing ladybugs and lacewings to do the work for you. Aphids can also be blasted off plants with a hose. Don't forget to check under the leaves as well. Damaged plant material should be thrown away, not composted, especially if it has developed sooty mold.
Mosquitoes: Our area usually gets a lot of rain around this time of year. Mosquitoes can definitely be a problem. It only takes a week of standing water to have a fresh crop of bloodsuckers. Be diligent about checking for water around pots, ditches, and low areas, including clogged gutters, water troughs, tires, bird baths, and buckets. Mosquitoes like to rest amongst dense vegetation where there is no wind to bother them, so consider removing dense groundcovers like Asian Jasmine (especially by your front door) and keep plants trimmed so there is adequate airflow. Make sure there are no stagnant areas.
February
by Rebecca Burrow
General Maintenance
Our last frost should be quickly approaching (average March 15th, but sometimes comes earlier!) Start getting ready for the spring hustle by making sure garden equipment is clean, hoses are in good repair, and other equipment is in good condition.
Want to know if the last freeze has occurred? Go find a mesquite or pecan tree. They will not start to leaf out until the last freeze is past. (Mind, it can still get pretty cold, but it won't freeze).
Prune deciduous trees and shrubs. Herbaceous perennials like American beautyberry and Texas lantana can be cut down to the ground and all of the old wood removed, as they completely regrow every year. How you prune depends on your plant (spring bloomers should only be pruned after they bloom). Study up on the plant's proper care. Some trees and shrubs require almost no pruning whatsoever, or even are averse to it. However, sometimes even the staunchest native may need a bit of a cleanup to remove dead wood, limbs too low to the ground, or branches overhanging a building.
Vegetables
February is considered the start of spring veggie gardening here in Central Texas. A lot of things can be done already, (keep tending your indoor hot-weather transplants), but keep in mind that it can still freeze. Be prepared to cover tender plants if necessary. You never know what the weather will throw at you.
Perennial herbs can be divided. Do this every 3-4 years with established plants.
Plant transplants for: asparagus (crowns), potato (seed potatoes)
Sow seed for: beets, carrot, Swiss chard, cool-season greens, lettuce, mustard, radish, spinach, and turnip
Ornamentals
Just about any potted perennial can be planted at this time. Roses, trees, evergreens,
Summer and fall blooming perennial flowers can be transplanted and divided in anticipation of spring growth.
Crepe myrtles: People are still pruning these trees, so let us just tell you. Do not be an offender. Do not commit crepe murder. Lopping off your tree does not increase the quantity of blooms and the weak 1-year old wood cannot even withstand the weight of its own flowers. Leave the tree alone. All it needs is for diseased or dead wood to be cut off as well as suckers to be removed from the base. It will grow a naturally beautiful vase shape all by itself. If your tree gets too big for its spot, cut it down and get a more suitable tree.
Ornamental Grass: Prune around this time. If you have a native clumping grass like Lindheimer Muhly, Mexican Feathergrass, or Sideoats Grama, hold off on the shears! All a native grass needs is a good fluffing. Do not hack them down like you would a Pampas grass. Take some good leather gloves and make upward raking motions with open hands. This removes dead matter while maintaining the plant itself. Another option for the adventurous is to very carefully and selectively burn your native clumping grasses (the Ladybird Johnson Wildflower Center is experimenting on this method of maintenance). Native grasses like being burned occasionally as it simulates natural prairie conditions. Be careful and keep a hose ready.
Roses: now is the time to prune roses. The goal of pruning roses is to create an open, vase-like form to improve circulation and prevent disease. Humidity and stagnation are the biggest problems for roses in Central Texas, so good air flow is critical. Go to " rel="noopener" target="_blank">
https://www.heirloomroses.com/info/care/how-to/pruning/ for information on pruning roses. Knockout roses can be cut to 1 ½ feet due to their stupendous vertical growth. Repeat-blooming antique roses should only be cut back a 1/3 of their current size. DO NOT prune spring-only bloomers yet, as you will cut all the buds off. Train your climbing roses at this time as well by tying the canes down to their support. Do not let them get unruly!
Trees and Fruit
Look for and remove hanging bags of bark on pecans and other trees, which can be a sign of impending bagworm issues.
Citrus: About now is when to start fertilizing citrus trees. Continue fertilizing through October. Nitrogen is normally all they require. For organic fertilizers, use compost or blood meal. Avoid plant-based fertilizers such as cottonseed meal until it warms up more. Go to https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/citrus/nutrition/L2288.htm for how to fertilize citrus.
Grapes: This is a good time to plant dormant bare-root vines (best time for container plants too). Dig a hole only big enough for the root system and do not add fertilizer. Water deeply. Cut off all but the most vigorous cane and prune it back to two buds.
Strawberries: The June-bearing strawberries you planted in the fall may be producing right about now! It could take them until March depending on the weather. They will continue through spring. Be diligent with watering and weeding and invite friends for strawberry shortcake!
Lawn Care
Do not fertilize yet! Wait until April and avoid "weed-and-feed" products. They really do not work. Rather in the meantime, get a soil-test done to determine what needs to be supplemented and measure your lawn area to know quantity. That way you know what actually needs to be done and how much. Fertilizer runoff and pollution is a serious issue to conserving our rivers and groundwater.
You can apply a pre-emergent herbicide to your lawn. Be careful to not get it around the root-zone of trees and do not use on a windy day. Since you measured your lawn, you know exactly how much to apply to prevent runoff pollution. Make sure you use an herbicide suitable for your type of lawn.
Pests and Wildlife
Keep an eye out for the Emerald Ash Borer beetle, which is steadily creeping into Texas killing all of our ash trees. Go to https://tfsweb.tamu.edu/eab/ for more information. If you think you have seen one, take a picture and send it to your local Extension agent or Master Gardener association. We would rather have a false alarm than not know if there really is one!
January
by Rebecca Burrow
General Maintenance
January is the start of a new year and the start of a new gardening season for central Texas. The ground does not freeze solid here, so we have the privilege and opportunity to do during the winter what we generally would do any other time. Water. Plant. Harvest. Enjoy.
Prune deciduous trees and shrubs. Herbaceous perennials like American beautyberry and Texas lantana can be cut down to the ground and all of the old wood removed, as they completely regrow every year. How you prune depends on your plant. Study up on the plant's proper care. Some trees and shrubs require almost no pruning whatsoever, or even are averse to it. However, sometimes even the staunchest native may need a bit of a cleanup to remove dead wood, limbs too low to the ground, or branches overhanging a building.
You may have an old (real) Christmas tree from the Christmas holidays. Resist the urge to chop it up for mulch or compost, as they are almost always heavily sprayed with pesticides and herbicides that could harm your plants. Consider calling up your local zoo. Some zoos recycle old Christmas trees as enrichment for their animals. It would be a good use for an old tree!
Vegetables
The spring veggie garden starts now! A little prep work in January will reap large rewards come spring and summer.
Many summer plants such as tomatoes often take a long time to mature, which can make growing them from seed a challenge. However, the growing season can be easily extended by growing transplants (young potted plants) indoors. Transplants jump start the summer garden and greatly widen your cultivar options so you can have a lot of fun with your veggie garden!
Also consider planting cold-tolerant herbs such as dill, thyme, calendula, and chervil. Cilantro also likes the cool weather, but may need frost protection.
Prepare your seed potatoes for planting in February. It is best to let cut potatoes dry for a few weeks to prevent rot once planted. Go to http://howtogrowpotatoes.website/index.php/seed-potatoes-planting-sprouting-chitting-storing/preparing-seed-potatoes/ for information on seed potatoes.
Start transplants for: eggplant, pepper, tomato
Plant transplants for: asparagus (crowns), bulbing onion (transplants or sets)
Sow seed for: beets, carrot, cool-season greens, lettuce, peas (English, snap, snow), radish, and spinach
Ornamentals
Plant annual transplants like pansies, calendula, ornamental kale, and larkspur. Generally any cold-tolerant perennial can also be planted, as well as groundcovers like frogfruit or liriope, and roses. Evergreens do not go dormant like deciduous plants, but they do slow down, and winter cold is easier to deal with than summer heat!
Do you need to move a plant somewhere else or divide a huge stand of irises? Now is the time to do it! Prune back upper branches to reduce shock. Choose a cool winter day and dig up as much of the root ball as you can. For grasses and shrubs, try to preserve a root mass equal in size to the crown. For things like irises, cut back the green leaves to 5-6 inches.
The branches of forsythia, quince, jasmine, and other similar plants can be brought indoors to force early blooms. The bulbs of hyacinth, narcissus, and crocus can be similarly forced at around this time.
Clean up your houseplants. Dust can clog the pores on leaves, so take a little time to wipe down your houseplants. Rotate the plant if you notice it leaning towards the light (it may also need a more southern exposure during the weaker light of winter). Fungus gnats can be an issue if the soil is too wet. Houseplants do not need to be watered as often in the winter. Also be on the lookout for spider mites, mealybugs, and scale insects.
Trees
Ideal time to plant fruiting and ornamental trees. They are dormant during the winter and suffer much less from transplant shock. Go to https://easttexasgardening.tamu.edu/2014/07/16/planting-trees/ for planting trees.
Fruit trees: For increased production, prune your fruit trees annually at around this time. This is called a dormant prune. Do not prune earlier, as trees around here have not been dormant very long. The ideal time is right before bud break, which usually occurs around mid-January to February depending on the weather and the type of tree. Go to https://modernfarmer.com/2015/02/right-cut/ for general pruning information. Pome fruits like apples and pears are pruned to a central leader system while stone fruit (peach, plum, nectarine, apricot) are pruned to an open center reminiscent of a martini glass. Young trees (1-2 years old) need pruning to establish a good foundation for long years of productivity. Older trees, especially mature trees, need cleaning up to keep good air and sunlight moving through their branches.
Peaches: For trees 3+ years old, 40-50% of the tree should wind up on the ground when you dormant prune. Peaches overgrow more than any other and need to be brought back down to size or they will just break themselves apart. Consider spraying your peach trees around the first of the year with neem oil to reduce scale insects and a sulfur-based spray as a fungicide.
Grapes: This is the ideal time to plant dormant bare-root vines (best time for container plants too). Dig a hole only big enough for the root system and do not add fertilizer. Water deeply. Cut off all but the most vigorous cane and prune it back to two buds.
Lawn Care
Your lawn is generally still dormant and not yet into its spring growth, but it is still alive and needs watering. Use a rain gauge. If it doesn't rain much for a couple weeks, water the lawn to prevent dessication. Drought is the largest killer of a winter lawn. It can still get to 75 degrees in January, so evaporation is still an issue. But you do not have to mow, so hooray!
Now, if you have a buffalograss lawn, do nothing. It survives just fine on 10-15 inches of water per year (Bell County receives 25-35). It needs no added supplementation. Watering it too much actually makes it unhealthy.
Pests and Wildlife
This is a dearth season for many native birds. Consider providing a high-energy birdseed during the winter months to make up for food shortages. Place feeders where prowling cats cannot make a meal out of your favorite cardinal. If you notice many birds taking advantage, it may mean there are not enough native food sources in your location. You may want to mull over adding native plants to your garden that supply winter food for songbirds, such as American beautyberry, Texas persimmon, or Possumhaw holly.
December
by Rebecca Burrow
General Maintenance
Deciduous Perennials: You can prune perennial shrubs once they are dormant and all the leaves have fallen off. This usually happens around now (depending on the weather of course). Be vigorous with native shrubs like lantana and deciduous salvia. Such shrubs completely regrow from the base every season. Cut them down to within a few inches of the ground. Leave your native hollies and American beautyberry alone until the birds have eaten all their fruit.
There is not as much to do in the deep winter garden once dormant pruning is accomplished, mulch is applied, and the garden is generally cleaned up. Use this peaceful opportunity to study up on gardening topics that interest you. Maybe you heard of hugelkulture and wonder what in the world that is and whether it could work for you, or perhaps you are curious about landrace breeding your own melons (it's easier than you might think!)
Vegetables
Now is the time to plan next year's garden. Go through the notes you have kept all year to see what plants performed well for you and are worth growing next year. Plan where, when, and how many to suite your needs. Maybe the rhubarb did terribly, but the beets outperformed expectations. Consider planting something new as well to keep it fun and interesting.
If you are planning a new garden, get a soil test done to see what kind of soil you have to work with. You can get soil test kits at your local county Extension office. The soil test will tell you your soil pH, which will determine what plants you can use, as well as nutrient levels, so you can balance the soil as needed.
• Sow seed for: cool-season greens, lettuce, radish, and spinach
Ornamentals
Good time to transplant perennial plants and grasses. Prune back upper branches to reduce shock. Choose a cool winter day and dig up as much of the root ball as you can. For grasses and shrubs, try to preserve a root mass equal in size to the crown.
• Bulbs: Plant the tulips and hyacinths you put in your fridge back in October. Make sure at least 45 days have passed, though 60 days is better.
• Crape myrtles: Stop pruning your crape myrtles. We call it "crepe murder" around here and it is completely unnecessary. Lopping off your tree does not increase the quantity of blooms and the weak 1-year old wood cannot even withstand the weight of its own flowers. Leave the tree alone. All it needs is for diseased or dead wood to be cut off as well as suckers to be removed from the base. It will grow a naturally beautiful vase shape all by itself. If your tree gets too big for its spot, cut it down and get a more suitable tree.
Trees
This is the ideal time to plant trees. Consider using a mychorrizal inoculant during planting time to greatly increase root development and tree health. Trees desire a fungal environment and need fungi in order to better uptake many important nutrients from the soil. Always mulch your newly planted trees as well and keep grass away from them!
• This includes cold-tolerant citrus such as Satsuma mandarins, kumquat, and tangerines. There is an embargo on citrus trees from outside of Texas due to citrus greening disease in Florida and Louisiana, so you cannot order citrus from nurseries outside of Texas. (If you ever find citrus trees for sale that were not grown in Texas, tell your extension agent immediately!)
• Most deciduous trees are dormant or are going dormant by now. This dormancy makes them much more tolerant of temperature, water, and pretty much anything done to them. Plant them now to take advantage of this. You have up until early February.
It is also an ideal time to see whether you have mistletoe. If you do, try to cut it off. If your tree is absolutely covered in mistletoe, you may want to consider its removal because it is in a serious decline it probably cannot recover from. A healthy tree can largely resist mistletoe, but a weak, sick tree becomes susceptible. Mistletoe does not cause decline, but it is a symptom.
Lawn Care
• Continue to water depending on rainfall. More grass dies from dehydration than from the cold in winter. If it doesn't rain, water your grass (you do not even need an inch per week). Water before you expect a frost to protect roots from the cold.
• Since you will probably not be watering that often, now is a good time to inspect your sprinkler system. Remove the spraying heads and replace any damaged ones.
Pests and Wildlife
Many birds are migrating at this time. Consider putting out a bird feeder with sunflower seeds, millet, dried fruit, and suet to feed local songbirds. Keep bird feeders away from death zones like tall grasses or bushes, ledges, or wall corners to keep our feathered friends from falling prey to outdoor cats. Higher is generally better.
Winter is a good time to enjoy the outdoors in Bell County and take a stroll around your garden during our often pleasant afternoons. Look at the shapes. Maybe come spring you can put an evergreen in an empty looking spot or select a more sculptural plant, like Texas Persimmon or a native agave, to give architectural interest during the winter. Maybe the bright red fruits of native Yaupon holly would look good in one area of your garden. Whereas spring and summer bring a lot of color, the winter garden is about physical form and pleasing shapes. Have fun with your winter garden!
November
by Rebecca Burrow
General Maintenance
Frost will now be an issue if you have any sensitive plants, such as citrus, most succulents, or roses. Place tropicals and other houseplants in a sunny southern window or greenhouse. Make sure you put a tray beneath the pot to protect your floor.
Hose off plants to remove any unwanted hitchhikers before you bring them in your house. Wipe off any spider webs.
Consider whether the plant should be repotted to a bigger container. You are moving it anyway so now is a decent time to do it.
Acclimate your plants by at first just bringing them in at night, so they get used to the decreased light and humidity. This can help prevent leaf drop. Gradually increase the time indoors until they are inside all the time.
Water only when the soil is dry. Make sure not to water so much it spills out of the bottom tray!
Houseplants do not need much fertilizer over the winter. Depending on the plant, use either a small quantity of slow-release fertilizer or a half-strength liquid fertilizer about once a month.
November usually means storms for central Texas, so periodically keep your garden beds clean by picking up downed branches and debris. Clean your gardening tools. Sharpen the blades of shovels, trimmers, and loppers. Apply a thin coat of machine oil to lubricate moving parts and prevent rust, especially on pruning shears. Use diluted bleach to disinfect trimmers as well. Linseed oil is good for wooden handles. Consider making a sand bucket with sand and motor oil to keep tools rust-free.
Mulch your perennial beds if you have not already. A good 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch is ideal and helps moderate temperature extremes. Bag up fallen leaves and compost them for use around your garden. Go to https://counties.agrilife.org/aransas/files/2011/08/Compost-Leaves.pdf for more information on composting leaves.
Prepare for freezes by insulating faucets and draining garden hoses. Gutters may need to be cleaned as well. Consult your owner's manual for information on winterizing your lawn mower and other engine-powered equipment.
Vegetables
Pay attention to the weather. Before the first frost, pick the fruit from tender plants such as tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers. Tomatoes can ripen indoors if put in a sealed paper bag, or alternatively, make fried green tomatoes (invite friends over if you do!) For frosts and extended periods of cold weather, consider using the variety of season-extenders over frost-tender plants, such as row cover tunnels using landscaping plastic and hoops. Milk jugs and other cloches are a useful method for individual plants. Go to https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/vgen/row-covers-for-garden-plants.htm for information on row covers. Remove the fabric when the temperature gets above 45 degrees to keep from baking your plants. This is Texas. It can still get to 80 degrees in the winter! Of course, the easiest way to get around frosts and freezing weather is to only plant
things than can tolerate it, like kale and other cool-season greens. Remove asparagus tops and compost them. Save the seeds from heirloom varieties to enlarge your patch.
Our average first frost is November 15, but it sometimes occurs earlier. Many root veggies such as carrots, turnips, and parsnips sweeten after a frost or two. Parsnips need this cold treatment for best flavor and can stay in the ground for a month after frosts start.
Plant transplants for: kale
Sow seed for: garlic, cool-season greens, lettuce, mustard, radish, shallot, spinach,
and turnip
Ornamentals
Prune the dead wood of herbaceous perennials, such as lantana and beautyberry, after the first couple of freezes.
Bulbs: Continue to plant spring-blooming bulbs up until the 1 st week of December. Force paperwhite bulbs for holiday blooms.
Succulents: Bring frost-tender succulents indoors. Many succulents, such as Echeveria, actually bloom during the winter, though some go dormant. Keep taking care of them as usual, but be careful not to overwater as the cold
temperatures keep them wetter for longer. Remove dead leaves so they do not rot.
Consider filling dead holes with new cuttings. Go to https://thesucculenteclectic.com/propagating-succulents-stem-cuttings/ for more information on this easy method. Place them in the sunniest location you have and rotate the pot if they start to lean towards the light.
Roses: Grafted roses are not as cold-tolerant as own-root roses and need to be protected from a hard frost. Mound up straw or soil around the root zone as insulation. Keep your roses watered during the winter if there are no sufficient rains (usually not an issue, but still needs to be considered.)
Evergreens: All evergreen plants still lose water through their leaves during the winter, unlike deciduous plants with no leaves. Continue to water them through the winter if there is not enough rain.
Ornamental grasses: Unless they look unthrifty, you can largely leave your ornamental grasses alone until early spring. If native grasses need a pick-me-up, just put on a good pair of leather gloves and fluff them with open hands, going in an upward motion to remove dead leaves. This is especially good for muhly grasses.
Trees
Ideal time to plant fruiting and ornamental trees!
This includes cold-tolerant citrus such as Satsuma mandarins, kumquat, and tangerines. There is an embargo on citrus trees from outside of Texas due to citrus greening disease in Florida and Louisiana, so you cannot order citrus from nurseries outside of Texas. (If you ever find citrus trees for sale that were not grown in Texas, tell your extension agent immediately!)
Most deciduous trees are dormant or are going dormant by now. This dormancy makes them much more tolerant of temperature, water, and pretty much anything done to them. Plant them now to take advantage of this. You have up until early February.
Citrus: Plant outdoor citrus trees in full sunlight with a very well-drained soil. Place where it will be protected from gusty north winds. If you have a sunny south-facing rock or brick wall, consider espalier. This technique was invented to
grow a tree farther north than it would typically tolerate. Go to https://www.epicgardening.com/espalier-fruit-trees/ for more information. Lemons are the perfect candidate for an informal espalier. Go to https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/fruit-nut/fact sheets/citrus/ for more information on protecting citrus trees from frost.
Lawn Care
There is not much to do with your lawn once November and cold temperatures hit. The grass generally goes into dormancy and you probably did your last real mowing in October. It is too late for fertilizer and pre-emergents as they would stimulate new growth that could freeze off. If you have winter weeds, all you can really do is pull them.
You can amend lightly with compost, but that is just about all you want to do. It will add a bit of insulation and decompose very slowly over the winter.
Continue to water depending on rainfall. More grass dies from dehydration than from the cold in winter. If it doesn't rain, water your grass (you do not even need an inch per week). Water before you expect a frost to protect roots from the cold.
Since you will probably not be watering that often, now is a good time to inspect your sprinkler system. Remove the spraying heads and replace any damaged ones.
Pests and Wildlife
Many birds are migrating at this time. Consider putting out a bird feeder with sunflower seeds, millet, dried fruit, and suet to feed local songbirds. Keep bird feeders away from death zones like tall grasses or bushes, ledges, or wall corners to keep our feathered friends from falling prey to outdoor cats. Higher is generally better. Insects are not much of a problem once the first frost hits. Winter is actually a good time to enjoy the outdoors in Bell County, as it can still get warm during the afternoon. This is a good time to take a stroll around your garden and just enjoy the space without sweltering sun or mosquitoes accosting you. Look at the shapes. Maybe come spring you can put an evergreen in an empty looking spot or select a more sculptural plant, like Texas Persimmon or a native agave, to give architectural interest during the winter. Whereas spring and summer bring a lot of color, the winter garden is about physical form and pleasing shapes. Have fun with your winter garden!
SEPTEMBER
by Rebecca Burrow
General Maintenance
September usually brings in our first fall rains. Start cutting back on watering perennials and trees to harden them off for winter. New growth may freeze in November, so do not fertilize. Remove fallen wood underneath trees to reduce
insect infestations.
If it doesn't rain for an extended time, continue to water evergreen plants. Unlike
deciduous plants, they continue to lose water over the winter if it is above 40
degrees.
Consider putting in rain barrels or a rain tank to capture rainwater coming off
your roof. This water is more acidic than tap water and free of chlorine. Plants
always prefer rainwater if it is available. Capturing rainwater can also reduce your
landscape water bill. The Bell County Master Gardener Association hosts periodic
rain barrel classes where you get to make and take home your own rain barrel. Go
to https://txmg.org/bell/water-collection-rain-barrel-workshop/ for more
information.
Vegetables
Sow fall cover crops such as buckwheat, annual ryegrass, and oats. If you are planting a fall and winter garden, sow your cover crop between rows and any open areas. Till under the cover crop before they go to seed and at least two weeks before planting vegetables in
the spring.
Plant perennial herbs such as thyme and rosemary.
Fall Vegetable Gardens: This is when the fall garden starts, which is a fantastic growing season in Bell County. If you planned ahead, you started transplants from seed back in July and they will be ready to plant around the middle of this month (depending on the heat of course.)
- Plant transplants for: artichoke, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower,
collards, kale, and kohlrabi. - Sow seed for: beets, carrot, Swiss chard, and peas (English, snap, snow)
Ornamentals
Threat of disease: Mid-September rains and increased humidity can bring back the threat of disease, such as black spot, fungus, and powdery mildew, not to mention slugs.
- Roses: Be on the lookout for Black Spot as September rains increase humidity. Prune rambling and large-flowering climbing roses after they finish blooming.
Go to https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/archives/parsons/publications/roses/prune.html for more information. - Wildflowers: Most native wildflowers, such as bluebonnets, mature and cast off seed now. Mimic this by doing the same thing. Sow your spring-blooming wildflower seeds. Alternatively, you can save the seed from spent summer bloomers such as liatris, coneflower, and coreopsis for sowing in the spring. If saving seed, allow them to mature and dry completely before storage.
- Many perennial bunching plants such as iris, cast iron plant, and hostas can be divided if beds are crowded. Remove all plants, spread out a thick layer of compost, and replant. Leave ample space between plants so you do not have to divide every year. Extra plants are free and can be put elsewhere in your garden (or given to friends!)
Trees
- Apply a fall layer of mulch around all trees. Do not add compost, just good organic mulch such as woodchips. It helps retain more water over the course of winter and insulates the soil, which aids against frost.
- Remove any grass around the root flare. The grass can encourage insects to travel up the tree and hang out for the winter.
Lawn Care
- Do not mow too low. Early September can still get really hot, which reduces drought resistance, as well as allowing too much light to get to the soil surface. When September rains hit, it is a recipe for weeds. Mow high, if at all.
- Cut back on irrigation once rains have returned. It is better to irrigate deeply once or twice a week instead of every day, to deepen the grass' roots and increase drought resistance. This also helps prepare warm-season grasses for winter
dormancy. - With Bermuda grass lawns, September is the time for optional over seeding. Bermuda grass goes dormant in the winter, so some people choose to over seed with a cool-season grass such as annual ryegrass or rough bluegrass. This keeps the lawn green. If you want to over seed, now is the time to do it!
- Fertilizer: Fall application. You can now fertilize St. Augustine and Bermuda grass lawns at 1/2 cup of nitrogen fertilizer per 1000 sq. ft. More is not better. Too much fertilizer weakens the grass. Do not fertilize Buffalo grass lawns.
Pests and Wildlife
- Fall webworms can be an issue, especially on pecan trees. If possible, take a long stick and break open the webbing for birds and wasps to eat the caterpillars inside. Low-hanging branches can be cut off if particularly infested.
- St. Augustine grass: Look out for chinch bugs and diseases such as brown patch and take-all root rot. They can both occur when the humidity is high and temperatures are moderate. Brown patch fungus makes a smoke-ring as the fungus moves outward. Take-all root rot turns leaves yellow and eventually kills them.
June, July and August
Review the Earthwise Plant Selection Guide put out
by the Texas AgriLife Extension Service
- Add mulch, mulch and more mulch to flower beds, trees and shrubs, 2-3 inches deep! Mulch will reduce evaporation and help prevent the growth of weeds!
- Plant warm season annuals and perennials such as salvia, zinnia, cosmos, gaura, tickseed, bee balm, butterfly bush, sun flowers, sage, coleus, Mexican heather, and vinca…
- Keep weeding! Weeds will use up valuable water and food resources desirable plants need.
- Continue to plant warm season turf grasses.
- Plan and look for fall vegetables that can be planted now. Plant sweet and hot peppers, okra and tomatoes (again) for fall harvest.
- Pay special attention to the water needs of lawns, trees, and ornamentals as hot dry weather sets in. Water in the early morning hours (3 AM to 8 AM) to minimize fungal problems and reduce evaporation. Check the water needs of newly planted trees and shrubs at least once a week all summer long. They need to get their root systems established.
- Mow turf grasses every 5 to 7 days, maintain Bermuda at 1 to 1 ½ inches and St. Augustine at 2 ½ in full sun and 3 to 3 ½ in semi-shade.
- Fertilize annual flowers and vegetables with your favorite fertilizer type to assure continued vigor, based on results from a soil test (which may cost as little as $10).
- Check ornamentals, flowers, and vegetables for aphids and spider mites, prevalent in warm months.
- Watch for webworms on trees, especially pecans and mulberries, and treat as necessary.
- Apply fungicide as necessary to control black spot and powdery mildew on roses.
April and May
Get busy planting seeds and transplants: annuals, perennials, herbs and vegetables!
• Seed or transplant zinnias, cosmos, sunflowers – all good wildlife annuals
• Transplant Salvia coccineas, a native that butterflies and bees just love
• Succulents (agave, yucca, other succulents)
• Ornamental (clumping) grasses like muhly and Mexican feather grass
• Trees if you keep them watered! Deeply to at least 3". Don't water if soil is moist
to 3". DO NOT prune red oaks and live oaks unless damaged.
• Herbs: Basil, catnip/catmint, comfrey, fennel, dill, horseradish, feverfew, oregano, thyme, rosemary, Mexican mint marigold, peppermint, lemongrass, lemon balm, lemon
•Food crops: Chard, corn, cucumber, eggplant, endive, Malabar spinach, mustard, peppers, pumpkin, summer & winter squash, tomatoes, beans, cantaloupe.
•Add compost to vegetable gardens along with organic fertilizer in prep for more summer crops
•Watch for powdery mildew. Apply a natural fungicide like Serenade if necessary. Generally, it goes away naturally. Avoid watering leaves at night.
•Mulch, but avoid touching the base of trees and roses
•WEED! Do not let weeds go to seed. Do not apply chemicals: pull them up or mow down before they set seed.
•When moving plants back outside, do it gradually. Prune and lightly fertilize. Lightly mulch.
Resources
Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Vegetable Planting Guides (Central Texas)
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/travis/home-landscape/edible-gardens/growing-vegetables/
https://www.centraltexasgardener.org/this-week/
https://txmg.org/mclennan/monthly-gardening-to-do/
https://dallascountymastergardeners.org/
Feb and March
Waiting for the last frost to begin spring planting…
• Remove winter-damage from shrubs and other ornamentals.
• Plant ornamental trees and shrubs while the weather is still cool.
• Dig, divide, or move spring blooming perennials
• Begin to plant warm season flowers as temperatures increase towards the end of the month and as they become available in nurseries.
• Continue to protect tender plants from late freezes.
Special Interest Topics: Weather's Humbling Majesty
Seasonal Preparation: January to early March
• Prepare beds for another round of winter planting by adding organic compost
• Mulch and add excess leaves to the compost pile
• Limit pruning of shrubs and trees to removal of damaged or dead branches
Lawns
• Discontinue watering lawns to reduce the chance of brown patch and other diseases
Planting
• Dig, divide, or move spring blooming perennials
• Plant pansies, flowering kale, cabbage
• Plant fruit trees
• Time to plant shrubs and hardy perennials
Vegetables
• Cover and protect newly planted transplants from freezing temperatures and winds. Wait for the last frost to do your all important "spring planting".
Trees
• October through January is the time to plant trees and larger shrubs
• Wait until spring to fertilize trees and shrubs
BCMGA Mission Statement
The Bell County Master Gardeners Association assists the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service in providing high quality, relevant, research-based horticultural education and service to the residents of Bell County and the state of Texas through outreach, teaching, and demonstration projects.
Read More
Fall Gardening In Central Texas
Source: https://txmg.org/bell/monthly-gardening-in-central-texas/
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